Dunedin

We are in Dunedin, which is down near the bottom of the South Island as against when I last wrote a blog in Hamilton, which is just under Auckland. I am using the laptop which belongs to the motel and the internet connection is free, which is fantastic. The security on my laptop would not allow access to the internet connection here. Dunedin is a hilly city and very Scottish, especially if the clouds are down. Thankfully the sun is shining so it looks less forbidding. In fact the place looks very friendly!
Yesterday morning we cleaned the van out, and paid careful attention to the toilet, as I would hate the next people to think we were unclean people! We spent $16 on the washing machines to ensure that our clothes were clean for the SI and then set off for Auckland, stopping along the way for our morning cup of coffee.
The sun was shining and temperature lovely and warm. We were sorry to hand the van back but delighted that we were not charged for the little mishap that occurred in Russell
We caught the flight to Christchurch, which took 1 1/4 hours and we had lovely views of the snow on the mountains as we came across the top part of the South Island. It was very chilly when we alighted in Christchurch which was a bit of a shock after the warm weather that we left up north.
As at Auckland Airport there were no clear signs as to the exit, no one to ask, and the pick up area was a mystery. The extensive building work at the airport did not help. Communication definately needs to be improved so that the helpless tourist feels welcome. The driver who finally picked us up said that people get lost all the time.
We were glad to arrive at the hotel which was minutes from the airport and the welcome was warm! We loved the big bed and ensuite bathroom, all very luxurious. There were a few cracks in the walls in the corridors otherwise no other damage from the earthquake. Luckily there were no tremors while we were there, although I did go through the earthquake drill in my mind, just in case.
We have a six year old Nissan Sunny car (not rentawreck you will be pleased to know, Donna) which is very cheap at $700 (350 pounds) for five weeks. When we drove from Christchurch to Oamaru it was on a straight road, which is the first in four weeks. What bliss. All very comforting too as the mountains were on our right and the sea on our left. This is the NZ I know well. The Southern Alps looked fantastic with their coating of snow. We stopped for coffee of course, a quick look at the supermarket that my nephew runs with his wife, a delicious lunch (hamburgers which included beetroot) at a hotel in the middle of nowhere and a stop to look at the Moeraki Boulders. These are very strange round rocks, and I am not sure what they are made of but they came from the cliffs above the beach. I will include photos in the blog tomorrow.
So now its off to bed to try out the electric blanket!

Hamilton

We woke up early today, in readiness for our trip to the glow worm caves, which cost the great sum of $67 (£33.50) each. Brilliant weather – warm, bright sunshine and no wind!

First we had to walk some distance to find coffee, which tasted great, although Walter did not get his full cup due to the fact that his man bag slipped off his shoulder so he spilled some of his coffee.

We left at 9.45 a.m. in a mini bus, with only seven people in the group plus the guide, a local farmer called Ross. We drove through stunning countryside on a very narrow twisty road. The main feature was the outcrops of layered limestone rocks, which were most unusual as they looked like piles of pancakes. It would appear that this part was once under a very shallow sea as the rocks contain shells, skeletons and debris of organisms that are found in the sea.

There were two caves, and we had a cup of tea and biscuits in an open shelter in between the caves. We also spent a little time walking on bush tracks.

The first cave contained the glow worms, which are not worms but are in fact the larval stage in the life of an insect called the fungus gnat. The scientific name of the NZ glow worm is Arachnocampa Luminosa as they spin webs to catch their food, as do spiders. Luckily they do not look like spiders otherwise I would not have entered the caves. The larvae live inside a cosy transparent cocoon and they spin long silken threads in order to catch their food, which are other insects who are attracted to the lights. The entire cycle of the glow worms takes about 10 to 11 months and 9 months of which is in the larvae stage.We spent about 40 minutes in the cave, most of it sitting in a rubber dinghy looking up at the little lights, but it does take some time to get used to the darkness.

The second cave was a dry cave, which had spot lights so we could see where we were going, thank goodness. The rock formations were brilliant.We also saw some extremely old Moa bones, which had become buried in the mud on the bottom of the cave. The poor Moa had no doubt been caught up in a major flood hundreds of years ago. All in all it was a fantastic experience and well worth the money. We had more coffee afterwards plus an enormous fresh berry ice cream and felt very full. When we got to Hamilton, a very prosperous city, we went for a long walk as we do not want to end up like the most enormously fat man we saw at the coffee shop.

We have been drinking wine during our time in the NI, just in case you think we have become teetotal. However, we are trying to drink only small amounts, and to really appreciate the wine we drink, which has mostly been red wines from the Hawkes Bay region.

So it is off to Auckland tomorrow to reluctantly hand back the camper van and catch the plane to Christchurch. Before I forget, can NZer's please make sure you wave or toot to drivers of camper vans when they pull off the road to let traffic past. I can assure you it would be very much appreciated.

Waitomo

(No photos today as we forgot to take them!)

It was overcast when we woke this morning but warm. It is definitely warmer in New Plymouth than anywhere else. I think that Mt Taranki must protect the town from the southerly winds. The first place we went to was the iCentre to have a look at the museum. Unfortunately we only had enough change for one hour of parking so had to rush around which was a real pity as it was a very extensive museum, which also included the art work of a local artist, John McLean. After watching a video, in which John McLean explained about the series of pictures on display (The Farmer’s Wife) we went and viewed the pictures. They were excellent – very descriptive and full of emotion and concepts. We then had to rush around the museum which showed the Maori and Pakeha settlement of Taranaki and quite a bit of information about Mt Taranaki. It was all free and there was a very good restaurant there too but we did not have time for coffee so that had to come at the next settlement called Waitara.

We then drove the remainder of the way to Waitoma through the usual twisty roads with beautiful scenery to look at, as long as you were not driving of course. We stopped at a place called the Three Sisters for lunch. The Three Sisters, now reduced to two sisters because one collapsed, are outcrops of rock at the river mouth of Tongaporutu, which was very picturesque. Unfortunately the tide was in so we could not walk to see the Two Sisters. There were about five motor homes (local NZer’s) wild camping and they informed us that you were allowed to camp there!

White baiting is in full progress up here and it is very tempting to have some before we leave the North Island. For those of you are not NZer’s, white bait are very tiny, tiny white fish which you make into fritters. They are a real delicacy. They are caught in nets at the mouth of rivers and as it is white baiting season we have seen lots of people out with their nets.

So now we are in Waitomo and have had a look at the small museum at the iCentre, which gives a detailed account of glow worms, caves and historical events. It is a glorious evening and we are sitting in the van watching a beautiful sunset. We are booked into the Spellbound Glow worm caves tomorrow, which is an alternative to the normal Waitomo Glow Worm Caves complex. There will be some walking involved, and it stated that you only need to be reasonably fit. Hope we fit this category. We are looking forward to it.

Dairy Farm in Waverley and New Plymouth

On the way to New Plymouth (just past Waverley) we visited the dairy farm that Jessica and Dean run as share farmers (Trudy’s daughter and husband). A truly fascinating experience and we learnt just how technical dairy farming has now become. Unfortunately we forgot to bring the camera so there are no photos of the milking shed or of the cows. However, it was an absolutely fascinating few hours and I will try to describe everything accurately.

First we had to put on gumboots because of the cow dung around and then drove to the milking shed, which was a little distance from the house. The first thing we saw was an oval shaped metal arrangement with lots of teats poking out of its sides, which is mummy to all the calves. The milk, which is a formula and is made up according to the age of the calves, is poured into it. The contraption is towed by a three wheeled motorbike. The calves love it of course. The calves are Jessica's responsibility.

Then we went into the shed to find a rotary milking platform which holds 40 cows. The cows walk on, the suction caps are attached to the teats and they rotate around and by the time each cow comes back to the starting point the suction caps come off automatically. It is all automated and is fully computerised. As each cow comes onto the platform their number is registered, their milk tested and any problems, such as infections, come up on the screen and can be dealt with straight away. It only takes one person to organise the milking of all the cows (400+), although Dean does have to get up at 4 a.m. The milk is piped into large containers outside and is immediately chilled. We had a glass of the milk and it was delicious. The milk is picked up by tankers and goes to a factory called Fonterra to be processed into dried milk powder.

We then piled onto the back of the tray of the ute (utility) and were taken around the farm. Dean drove very carefully thank goodness as the ground was uneven and quite hilly. I must admit I was a little nervous at first. We learnt all about how they move the herd of cows around so as to use the pastures productively, how they mix the breeding to improve milk production, the crops they grow for cow food and how to measure the grass.

The fences are all electric, even the gates so no touching them accidently. The cows are moved between fields and the milking shed on special dirt tracks which have to be maintained and covered in sand or soil so that the cows’ feet do not get damaged.

The main herd is kept together in one field, then there are the group of heifers in another field. They are waiting for their turn to be milkers (I think the bulls are visiting them at the moment), and the different groups of calves who are at different stages are in other fields. Of course the down side for the kind hearted like me, is that not all the animals make it to be milkers, ie the too small, the inadequate, the too old, the males and also the badly behaved, all get sent away for a ‘holiday’.

Walter took some photos when we got back. The view from their house was worth a million dollars – Mt Taranki on one side and Mt Ruapahu on the other plus undulating hills for miles around. The downside is the southerly wind that whistles across the land. Today it was warm and very sunny so was perfect. It was with great sadness that we said goodbye to the family and set out for New Plymouth. On the way we passed by Mt Taranki (also called Mt Egmont) and lots of really interesting little settlements. Now we are in another Top 10 Holiday Park, which has cost a bit more ($42) and onto Waitomo tomorrow.

Wanganui or Whanganui

The spelling of this lovely town is always in debate but it is definitely pronounced Wa not the Wh (f) sound as in the rest of NZ. The river is spelled Whanganui but the spelling of the name is left to individual people.

Chateau Tongariro (now owned by Bayview). We left Tongariro National Park after the usual cup of coffee, but not in the Chateau because they don’t serve coffee until 11 a.m. When we went in people were still having breakfast. We were able to take some photos though.

We travelled through some beautiful, but very rugged country which included the usual very twisty and undulating roads. We travelled on Route 4 and there were some very interesting old towns such as Raetihi (see below), which is an old logging town. As it was a public holiday it was also a very deserted town.

We stayed with Lindsay and Trudy who live just on the edge of Wanganui. They have a very large section which includes a high hill at the back. They also have wonderful coffee. It was lovely to see Lindsay (my nephew) after 13 years and to meet Trudy, his wife and her three children, son in law and little granddaughter. The comfortable and warm bed was also very much appreciated! It was truly a lovely two nights and we were very spoilt. Yesterday Lindsay and Trudy took us around Wanganui and we were able to have a really good look at the city and surrounding countryside, which included the beaches, wharves, river, city, parks and a climb up to the top of the Durie Hill Elevator to view Wanganui which was very impressive. We also met Trudy’s parents and spent time looking at the commercial Rose Nursery they used to own. They also gave us lots of information about the cultivation of roses which was vey interesting.

We went out to lunch at Oggi’s which had very tasty lunches which NZ does so well – I had a stuffed pumpkin slice, which included roasted macadamia nuts. Walter had roasted vegetables with wild rice. They were delicious. That night we went out to a hotel, (cannot remember the name unfortunately) where we ate more delicious food. Walter’s dish was especially impressive - lamb en croute on a bed of kumera and spinach.

We are very impressed with food in the NI as it is imaginative and there is a culture of mixing food from different cultures (fusion). They also use fresh ingredients. UK chefs could really try a bit harder and take note of what is happening down under. It does not cost any more money either.

Tongariro National Park

We started the day with our usual latte, at Fergusson’s Cafe. We have worked out that by the time we leave NZ we will have spent at least $700 on coffee (£350). The sun was shining, the temperature warm and all walks seemed possible.

We were also relieved to wake up this morning to find that we had not been swept away by a lahar. While I was finishing my hour on the internet, Walter read all the notices on the walls and pointed out that we were in a high risk lahar area, which was not comforting as we were about to go to bed. According to the instructions, on hearing a siren we have to dress warmly, gather up our valuables and sleeping bag and head for the safe area, which is a ten minute walk away (no driving vehicles). There is only a 10 minute warning before the lahar reaches you so not sure how you can do all of the above and still get to safety!

We had a very interesting day (as always). On the 2 ½ hour walk we travelled through a mountain beech forest and then climbed very steeply alongside a stream which ran over red and yellow rocks. The rocks are coloured by deposits of iron-oxide clays from upstream swamps. The stream eventually turned into rapids (Silica Rapids) and when we reached the place where the stream comes out of the cliffs there were creamy white terraces. We also walked (on boardwalks) over swampy areas of wire rush, tangle fern and red tussock plus a higher altitude tussock-covered lava flow.

In the afternoon we drove the 6 kms up to the ski area, which was very busy with tourists and skiers. The black volcanic rock makes the area very stark, even with the snow at the top. Scenes from the Lord of the Rings was filmed here (‘Mordor’ and Emyn Muil’). It is a large ski resort, which is not apparent when you stand by the buildings at the bottom. Most of the runs are intermediate, with a large number of black and extreme runs. There is a small area at the bottom for beginners. There are also a large number of chalets, which are built in timber so that they blend in with the terrain. We finally decided to have a look at Chateau Tongariro, which is ostentatious and very out of place. However, it has been here since 1929 and once belonged to the Tourist Hotel Corporation (the same as the Lake House, Waikaremoana). The decor inside is still left over from the 1930’s and very impressive. We decided to have a drink, a red wine for me and a beer for Walter, which was reasonably priced, and soak up the atmosphere. We sat on lovely comfortable couches and viewed a perfectly framed Mt Ngauruhoe through the window. We are going to have coffee there tomorrow morning and take some photos.

Whakapapa Village, Mt Ruapehu

What a fascinating place! The weather is also glorious, bright blue skies and is pleasantly warm. The deep blue sky really sets the three mountains off. The ski fields (only the really keen and experienced are skiing as it is the end of the season) are only 6 kms away.

We are staying in a holiday park ($38 per night) which is set amongst the trees, and each site is surrounded by bush. When we look out of the back of our van we have a view of a stream with Mt Ruapehu above it. Magical!

We are in Tongariro National Park, which was established in 1887, and is a Heritage Park. It covers the three mountains of the area, Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu. Tongariro means tonga (wind) and riro (carried away). The three peaks are a gift to NZ from the local iwi (tribe) who saw the act as the only way to preserve an area of spiritual significance.

The area is now famous as the setting for Lord of the Rings, which adds to the mysticism of the place, even though the movie was fiction. “Plains of Gorgoroth” was filmed below Mt Tongariro and “Mt Doom” is actually Mt Ngauruhoe (see picture below). We are of course in an area where there are active volcanoes. Mt Ruapehu is the highest and most active, having erupted on a number of occasions in the past forty years, the latest one being in 2007. Mt Tongariro last erupted in 1926 and the youngest volcano, Mt Ngauruhoe (below) looks like a stereotypical volcano (I am not sure if it has erupted recently). Of course worse events (other than eruptions) have occurred in the past due to the crater lake on the top of Mt Ruapehu getting blocked. The dam of rock which holds the water in suddenly breaks and the volcanic mud and water (known as a lahar) suddenly sweeps down the side of the mountain. In 1953 a lahar took away a bridge and an express train went straight into the river, killing 153 people. Apparently there are now alarm systems on the crater lake’s edge. I hope they work!

We went on a beautiful loop walk today to see the Taranaki Falls. The two hour walk took us through tussock and alpine shrublands as well as beech forest. We could see Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Ruapehu above the immediate scenery as we walked along the track. It was all very impressive.

Lake Taupo - 2 days

I have combined the two days into one blog so if you have read the blog yesterday you will need to have another look. My apologies if everything looks muddly. The first picture above is taken of Lake Taupo, looking towards Mt Ruapehu. You will need to look back at the blogs about Rotorua to see the photos which I am about to upload.

I forgot to say that Rotorua shopping area is still laid out as before and used as a regional shopping centre for New Zealanders as is Taupo. The only difference is the number of Asian restaurants, which no doubt cater for the Thai, Japanese and Indonesian tourists. Of course there are the usual McDonalds, Pizza Hut and Burger King restaurants dominating the best part of Taupo, i.e. the foreshore.

After two nights at an excellent Top10 Holiday Park ($40 per night) in Rotorua, we are in an even better Family Park ($40 per night) in Taupo. However, the internet access at both of these camping grounds is dreadful (cannot upload photos) and expensive ($8 per hour). I have just found that I can upload photos tonight but it is very slow. So frustrating!

The drive here was a little scary as the road was busy and there was a very gusty wind. We stopped at a Wairakei Terraces which is a man made thermal area. The area was formally known to the Maori as Waiora and to the Europeans as Geyser Valley, and was once one of the most active thermal areas in the world, with 22 geysers and 240 mud pools and springs. In 1958 all this changed with the geothermal power project. The idea is to recreate the environment that was there before 1958. It was very interesting to see the work that had been carried out, especially the terraces as the silica does not take long to build up.

We then stopped at the Huka Falls. We expected to see high falls but in fact the water moves through a very narrow canyon (200,000 litres per second) and expels dramatically into the wider river. Not the place where you would want to go white water rafting. It was very impressive.

On the Thursday afternoon we went to the Taupo De Bretz Hot Spa Resort which is in the valley beside the camping ground. This costs $4 each entry to the pool. It was very showery and quite cold so the water really warmed us up.

Today (Friday) was beautiful, sunny although very nippy still as there was a strong wind blowing initially.

We walked the 5 km return journey to Taupo, plus walked around the shopping area which is quite extensive.

When we returned we went straight to the hot springs for a relaxing hour and a half just sitting in the hot water. The hottest pool is 40 degrees and the second pool we used was 35 degrees. I do find that 15 minutes in the hot pool is enough at a time. The hot springs here do not smell of sulphur so are not as acidity as the ones in Rotorua. The setting was just beautiful. We are becoming quite addicted to concept of the hot springs

Rotorua - Day 3

It was a slow start this morning. I needed to polish my nails, in anticipation of a spending some time in the thermal pools. This time I remembered to leave my socks off until the polish dried! Then we stopped for the necessary cup of latte on the way into town. I love the coffee in this country.

Finally we arrived at the Government Gardens, which were full of flowering azaleas as well as steam rising out from holes in the ground and a strong smell of sulphur. I did notice though that no longer does the steam and sulphur smell come out of the gutters in the streets. If you fancy playing croquet or lawn bowls than these gardens are the place to come to.

The museum (admission price of $12.50 each) was well worth a visit. It used to be the old Bath House which offered alternative medical treatments, such as electrical currents added to your spa. The acid in the water played havoc with the pipes so everything did not always go according to plan. We view some of the old treatment rooms and they did not look pleasant. The main displays were based on Maori history, Maori involvement in World War 2 and the eruption of MtTarawera. We watched a film of the eruption which was very authentic as the noise was horrific. Added to the realism was the fact that the seats we were sitting moved as if we were actually there. Very scary! The display was excellent and very emotional.

We learnt much about the local Maori history and the people who lived here. There was an extensive collection of taonga (treasures) of Te Arawa , the local iwi (tribe), such as woodcarving, flax weaving and jade.

We went right up to the viewing platform on the rooftop which had a very good of the town.

We then went across to have a look at the Blue Baths, which have been renovated after being closed from 1982 to 1999. There is still a swimming pool at the back but the pool I swam in is now a conference centre. Luckily we did not have our swim suits with us otherwise we would have gone in there. Instead we walked across to the Polynesian Spa which was a very smart affair and offered so much more. There were many options but we took the $21 per person option to use the Adult Pools & Priest Spa. We had to hire bathing suits and towels which added to the cost ($10 each). There were only a few people there and we had a marvellous view over the lake. There were three Priest Spa pools (39 to 42 degrees) which were very sulphurous (acidity). This water received the name of Priest because a priest used the water to cure severe arthritis. These pools are meant to have therapeutic properties. There were also three small pools of 29 degrees and a large exercise pool which were alkaline. We spent about two hours there and felt wonderful when we finished – it really does work. I also bought some Rotorua mud so that I can continue to beautify my skin after I leave.

After that we went to a pub and had a drink and then went to a Turkish Pizza place and had pizza with unusual toppings – mine was called Aussie and the topping consisted of prawns and sweet chilli sauce. It was delicious. Walter had an Greek pizza which had lots of red onions, feta and olives. A great finish to an interesting day.

Rotorua Day 2

As we survived the night without any volcanic eruptions, we visited The Buried Village of Te Wairoa after a lovely cup of coffee with a fruit slice. This set the mood for the day.

When Mt Tarawera erupted on the 10^th June, 1886, it wiped out many Maori villages (which are now 15 metres under mud), the pink and white terraces, plus destroyed Te Wairoa, either by burning or partially burying buildings. The site has a museum which tells the stories of the eruption and the people who were caught in it. The museum gave a very personal account of what happened. It also contained many photographs and household items that had been retrieved from the site. We found it a very moving experience. There was also a short bush walk in the valley to Te Wairoa Falls which were very dramatic and an unexpected extra to the visit.

Visitors who wanted to see the pink and white terraces stayed in hotels in Te Wairoa, either in a temperance hotel or one that allowed alcohol (it seemed to be livelier). They were then taken, by a Maori guide, down through a valley to Lake Tarawera where they boarded a Maori canoe which took them to Lake Rotomahana. They then walked to the terraces. Quite a trip!

We had lunch in the camper van, which we parked on a narrow gap between the blue and green lakes, which was also very impressive.

In the afternoon we went to Te Puia at Te Whakarewarewa (which has a much longer name – Te Whakarewarewatanga o te Ope Taua a Wahiao which means ‘The Gathering Together of the War Party of Wahiao’). The place has changed somewhat since I visited in 1964. For a start there are now fences to stop people from walking into the boiling mud and geyser (this was very comforting) plus there are now carving and weaving schools, interactive galleries, a kiwi house, Maori Village and Marae complex. There is also a circular entrance which consists of 12 carvings which reach skyward and are very impressive. The city now has spread out to Whakarewarewa. There was a guide who was very interesting and we still had time to explore the place on our own. The Pohutu Geyser put on a spectacular display as did the Prince of Wales Geyser. We also saw the boiling mud which looked like a pot of porridge bubbling away. The photo of me below was taken while I sat on the hot seat! And parts were too hot to sit on!

We are now at a Top 10 Holiday Park in the middle of Rotorua and it is full of motor homes (Britz, Maui, Packpackers, Jucy, NZ Motorhomes). It looks like motorhome alley. Tomorrow we are going to have a much cheaper day and visit all the free sights. Today cost a lot of money in entrance fees ($133) but well worth it.

Rotorua

The weather this morning was very windy with low misty cloud. So we set off to drive 45 km of twisty gravel road to Ruatahuna feeling a just a little nervous. This turned out to be unfounded, except for a section high above the lake, where the road was extremely narrow, with a very long drop to the water and a very gusty wind. When we arrived at Ruatahuna, the only place we have found that serves instant coffee, the tearooms were in even worse condition than they were 45 years ago. The people were very friendly and chatty. We continued along more twisty gravel roads (with horses and cattle wandering around) until we finally reached bitumen and our telephones started bleeping again.

The first stop in Rotorua was at the Waimangu (Black Water) Volcanic Valley. The weather suddenly became sunny which was very much appreciated. Waimangu Valley is the only hydrothermal system in the world that can be recorded from the date that it commenced on 10^th June 1886, when Mt Tarawera exploded and created a series of craters. Since then there have been other geothermal activities which have caused changes to the area and scientists have been able to plot the activities as well as monitor the plant life. When Mt Tarawera erupted in 1886 more than 100 people were killed, as well as all the wildlife and vegetation. The pink and white terraces were also destroyed. The valley is fascinating and it is like walking on another planet with hot water bubbling everywhere and steam rising out of every crevice. There are pretty coloured terraces which have been created out of all the minerals present in the water. There are now trees and plants which have adapted to the very warm conditions. We walked down a path (took about 2 hours) and came back on a bus (uphill). A totally fascinating area and well worth the $62 entrance (Senior’s price). We are in a Top 10 Holiday Park ($42) opposite the Blue Lake. Tomorrow we are going to visit the Hidden Village (a result of the 1886 eruption) and Lake Tarawera as well as the big tourist trap, Whakarewarewa, to see the mud pools and geysers. It could be a very expensive day!

Waikaremoana Day 2

Waikaremoana means ‘Sea of Rippling Water’. We are in the Te Urewera National Park (Te Urewera means ‘Burned Penis’!). The lake was formed when a giant landslide blocked a river (many thousands of years ago) so underneath the lake are thousands of submerged trees. The whole area is shrouded in mist and mysticism. The local Tuhoe people, known as ‘Children of the Mist’ never signed the Treaty of Waitangi. At the beginning of the 20^th Century the army of Te Kooti took refuge in the mountains during the running battles with government troops. He was eventually arrested in 1916 but you still tend to look for him when out in the bush. I think that most of the Tuhoe people now live in Ruatahuna which is on the northern edge of the national park.

The Lake House Hotel opened in 1900 and become the official Government Tourist Hotel in 1909. The hotel, along with the other hotels under Government managed, were never financially viable. The Lake House catered for people who had money to stay there, but the costs of providing a deluxe service were so high, that they closed the hotel in 1972. I am not sure whether the building burnt down or it was demolished – a bit of both I think.

I worked in the hotel from November, 1964 until March 1965. There were 15 rooms in the hotel and there must have been about 20 or more staff. It was a bit of an ‘upstairs, downstairs’ arrangement. The hotel manager and his wife (the Wagstaffs), the girls who were in the front office (of ‘good’ background) and the bar manager (ex British military) and his wife, slept in guest rooms, ate in the guest dining room and mixed with the guests. We did not mix with them or the guests. The rest of us slept in the staff quarters and ate in the staff dining room and had a great time. Gossip abounded in the hotel, and we were always making stories up about the guests. The staff were an interesting bunch of people and consisted of the head waiter (who disappeared now and again to go on a drinking binge), his wife (Austrian) and baby, the cook (Swiss), local Maori, students, two teachers earning extra money, and people who were on ‘working’ holidays. The chef was very volatile, and threw a knife at me once because I messed up an order. Luckily it missed but we had trouble pulling it out of the wooden floor. In our free time (afternoons and one day off a week), we explored the area. We took a dinghy out most days, sometimes we used oars but mostly we took one that had an outboard motor. We tried fishing but the line kept getting caught around the propellers and we were forever getting into trouble for messing up the motor. My parents sent me a life jacket which I took with me, but never wore! We walked all the short tracks, often wearing rubber flip flops, and learnt about the history and geography of the area. I was not a successful waitress, but it was a tremendous experience and I made many really good friends, especially Jackie who I then continued travelling with to Christchurch and Sydney. (And we are both still travelling).

Today, it was very misty and sometimes drizzly. Altogether we spent about 4 ½ hours walking, half of which was uphill. It got very chilly when we walked up to Lake Waikareiti and we were glad we wearing fleeces and jackets. We had lunch by the Aniwaniwa Falls – we could not talk because of the noise of the water but sat and admired the scenery.There were very few people around so we had the place to ourselves, which was a real treat. We did not meet Te Kooti, or any wild bulls either, which was a relief. We did hear lots of sounds from the birds though, magic.

Lake Waikaremoana Day 1

We left Wairoa at 10 am after a restorative cup of coffee. The day is sunny and warm, and is the sort of day that everything is possible.

The road, which started off as bitumen eventually changed to a narrow gravel road. This road had not changed in 45 years. We had a quick look at Tuai, which still has a power station, but now only has a few houses and an upmarket lodge. Once this was a bustling place, and filled with workers from the power station, and their families. The cinema, church, closed store and school still remain but there are no people! I found it quite unsettling and spooky so was pleased to drive out of the place.

When we arrived at the site of the Lake House (see picture above), there was the same circular drive way but no buildings! We walked around and I pointed out to Walter where the buildings used to stand. We then walked along the path to where the staff quarters were placed and the path was the same but no buildings. There was the same view of the camping ground too. What a weird experience! This area is now known as Waitiri Point.

We drove down the hill to the camping ground, which has been redeveloped and extended and looks much better. We are beside the old toilet block. The new chalets and cabins are very smart and the store is at the front rather than at the back of the camping ground. There is a very modern amenities block with a very large kitchen. Sadly the toilets could be a little cleaner (full of leaves and dust). The old path up to the Lake House is still there but I know how steep it is so am not attempting to climb up. The Lake House was on the top of the hill on the right in the picture below. The staff quarters overlooked the camping ground.

We walked along the old road, now a walking track, to the Information Centre which was closed as it is Saturday. Typical! The collection of buildings and large car parks which now make up the Park Headquarters are much improved from the old Department of Roads buildings that used to be the Park Headquarters. We had a look at some of the waterfalls (Aniwaniwa) that I particularly liked and they are still stunning. Tomorrow we are going back there, in order to go on a longer walk up to a small lake, Lake Waikareti, which will take us on a round trip of about 2/3 hours.

Lake Waikaremoana is very beautiful and not just a figment of my imagination, in that I have made the area sound better than it really is. I am certainly not disappointed and Walter is enjoying being here also. The people who run the camp gave us some books to read and it certainly brought back lots of memories for me and has also given us much historical information about the area.

I have also read all the information about what to do if there is an earthquake, landslide or volcanic eruption. At least we don’t have to worry about a Tsunami!

Wairoa

Here we are in Wairoa, last visited by me 45 years ago, and nothing much has changed except for a few new buildings. Unlike the small towns that we passed through up north, Wairoa is struggling and there are many old shops that are empty plus some very run- down buildings. However the town has lots of charm and we are enjoying being here. Wairoa has the highest Maori population as against the European (62%).

The camping ground is amazing. It is small, green, well maintained but the facilities are best described as very pretty. They are also spotlessly clean and I feel afraid to use them. The ladies have pink gingham curtains below all the basins and there is blue gingham in the men’s.There is also carpet on the floors and pictures on the walls. The kitchen area is also very homely and the outside patio has an imitation old car against a wall (made out to look like a car halfway out of the garage), which contains a BBQ. I love it all! We are sitting in the camper van listening to a Maori radio station which has requests on it – Whanau hour (family hour). They use whanau (family)a lot on the station – we have listened to it all the way around the Cape and I think the station is based in Gisborne. A bit of local flavour! Also lots of country and western music

.Last night we stayed at a Top 10 Campsite in Gisborne, which of course was predictably of a high standard. This morning we went for a walk and had a look at the statues of Captain Cook and his cabin boy. They did not get a good reception from the local Maori so could not land and get fresh food. Therefore they named the bay Poverty Bay.

We both feel a little overdressed and have done so for a few days and realised we should have brought our woolly hats, old jumpers, jogging bottoms and gumboots (Wellingtons), which appear to be the standard dress around here. Very practical in such wet weather, but I am amazed at how they can wear gumboots all day (I can remember doing so as a child).

I may have this wrong but ‘Footrot Flats’ comes to mind. Was this cartoon series based around Gisborne? Also did Murray Ball write the cartoon sketches?

As we left Gisborne we passed the A & P show which officially starts today. I am glad I am not walking around the exhibits as there was mud everywhere but I hope for their sakes it is going to be a successful weekend.

We are enjoying the lack of tourists on the East Cape and Wairoa, and there are very few camper vans (I believe it is quite different in the summer time). Consequently everything is much cheaper but of course not so good for the local economy. I helped today by buying some wool to knit scarves which is very optimistic as I have not finished the socks yet! However I could not resist the lovely bobbly wool.
Observations from the van today showed very dirty sea water (flood water) so no beautiful blue sea. The rain has stopped thank goodness. Gum trees that have been planted in the NI do not look healthy so obviously not suited for this climate. Also blackberries are a real problem around Wairoa and if something is not done soon the hills are going to be covered completely.

We are camped beside a really wide river. Thank goodness it has stopped raining otherwise we may have found ourselves floating out to sea. Off to Lake Waikaremoana tomorrow.

Gisborne

Well, it is still raining, has been for four days now, and the local people are fed up. It has rained nearly all winter, the ground is waterlogged and this current rain has tipped the balance and there is flooding everywhere. The road from Wairoa to Napier was impassable this morning and I believe that the roads up north were also blocked so luckily we got through yesterday. We are also fed up and we have only experienced the rain for two days. The latest is that the rain will stop tomorrow and there will be sun on Saturday – we hope.

We travelled down from Tolaga Bay this morning, after walking along the longest wharf in NZ, which was originally used to load ships with goods to take to other parts of the coast. The facilities at the camping ground were very good and spotlessly clean. There were only four people staying there, and the lady was out cleaning the toilets and showers this morning. The camping ground land, like so much of the coastal land in the East Cape is owned by the Maori Trust, and is leased to the people who run the camping ground. They cannot make any alterations unless they get permission from the Trust. However, the Trust has built them a lovely new house and the cabins and toilet/shower block and kitchen are in very good order. All the camping grounds that we have been in have large areas for cleaning fish, plus freezers to keep bait and fresh fish in so fishing is a very popular activity up here (and everywhere else).

We came past the bay where Whale Rider was filmed but of course all you could see was mist. We are again opposite the beach and cannot see anything but the immediate waves. I have given up looking for a Tsunami as you will never see it through the mist (until it hits you). The instructions at Tolaga Bay said that on hearing the warning you must run for higher ground, which is very comforting if you can find some higher ground. We also heard on the radio that they were going to have Tsunami disaster practice somewhere in Gisborne today. I am pleased that preparations are in hand.

We have passed many schools during the past twelve days and are impressed with the condition of the grounds and buildings. Most of the schools are built of wood or hardiplank and all have been recently painted, with some painted in bright colours. There are always verandahs or sail type shade cloth surrounding the buildings and the grounds are landscaped with large areas where children can play. This also applies to the schools on the East Cape where there is a rough and ready attitude towards buildings (except the Marae).

Schools seem so much more relaxed here than they are in the UK. I am sure there are problems with the NZ system, however nothing can beat the current rigidity of the education system in the UK. Now that I am away from the education system, I can now see just what a destructive system it is, as it punishes the people who work for it. I am glad I am out of it!

Tolaga Bay

Tonight we are camped at Tolaga Bay, which has a mysterious ring about it. Unfortunately we cannot see a thing because of the low cloud and relentless rain. I have not even been on a facilities tour yet in order to rate the conveniences. We are just so thankful to be somewhere.

It started as a promising day, although overcast. We should have looked at the very dark clouds over the end of the Cape but we were too keen to get going. After a walk on the beach, we went into Opotiki for coffee and a look around and were impressed with the town, interesting shops, friendly people and excellent coffee. There is a huge Maori population here of course, and the history shows that there were many wars during the 1800’s.

We set off in a drizzle but thought it would get better, always optimistic or perhaps we were suffering from delusion. The weather which started as a drizzle ended up as torrential rain by the time we reached the end of the cape and we then slowly drove for hours up and down hills, on twisty roads, around slips and over numerous streams which ran over the road. The rivers looked like they would spill over their banks at any minute. The first campsite was flooded, the second one was closed and we finally arrived at Tolago Bay, which is just above Gisborne.

However we still had a very interesting day. The very small settlements along the north east part of the coast were fascinating, each one boasted a beautiful and well maintained Marae, a few houses and sometimes a school. There were lots of horses around and I believe that the Maori people still use them for local transport. One of the schools (Torere School) has a magnificently carved Whakairo Gateway. The Ngaiti tribe of Torere are descendents of an original settler’s daughter called Torere. There were also some lovely churches as well. I have uploaded a picture of an Anglican Church at Raukokore.

There was not much that was open but we stopped for a very welcome cup of coffee at the East Cape Manuka Oil factory between Hicks Bay and Te Araroa. We also indulged in a double scoop of honey and chestnut icecream (delicious) and bought a jar of manuka honey hand cream, which is meant to work wonders on rough hands! This all lightened our wallets by $30 (£15) but we went away feeling much happier.

The towns that we have passed through since we started travelling are always well patronised and there is hardly ever an empty shop. Obviously these small shopping centres mean a lot to the people who live in and around them, which is unlike the small villages and towns in the UK. They also are well cared for and maintained and look quite prosperous.

I also have not mentioned the pests that people have brought into the country – gorse, blackberries (and many more plants) plus rabbits, hedgehogs and possums. The gorse, which looks so pretty in the UK is a real problem here. The last few days we have seen so much gorse that has been sprayed in order to try and control it, which is very worrying but very necessary. However, I am not sure that the practice of spraying whole fields of grass with herbicide (or some sort of poison), before the field is ploughed and seeded is necessary. We have seen huge areas of dead grass during the past two days. What does this do to the environment, I wonder.

Tomorrow we are off to Gisborne, in the sunshine I hope!

Opotiki

Last night was very cold, not helped by the draught coming in under the curtains. I left my fleece top on but it was still cold. Unlike our insulated motorhome with its double glazed windows, the Britz Campervan is a panel van conversion (not much insulation) with single glazed windows and the cold just seeps inside.

Tonight we are in yet another really lovely holiday park in Ohiwa Beach, about 15 minutes drive from Opotiki and it is relatively cheap – only $34. We have travelled alongside the Bay of Plenty today (Whangamata, Waihi, Kaikati, Tauranga, Mt Maunganui, Whakatane) – initially a very twisty road but finally on relatively straight roads at the end. As usual the backdrop was rugged hills and everywhere was green and lush. We had lunch overlooking the port of Tauranga.

Our current view is over low sandhills towards the sea. In the distance we can see White Island which is about 50 km away and is meant to be awe inspiring, terrifying as well as fragile and beautiful. White Island is NZ’s most active volcano. We could visit it, but it means going out in a boat on rough water so will give this a miss. It looks fantastic, even from this distance. It is not a cold night.

Tomorrow we are stocking up on food, petrol and wine and will be heading off around the East Cape on the Pacific Coast Highway (a narrow twisty road which runs around the coast to Gisborne). This is meant to be a very unspoilt part of the NI and Maori life is centred around their families and communities. There are many Marae (meeting houses) dotted around the cape. You are not allowed to enter a Marae unless invited but we can look at the beautiful carvings from the road.

Food tastes wonderful and is very fresh. At lunch, we finished the smoked mussels that we bought in Coromandel Town – wonderful with fresh multi grain bread. This evening we had sausages, mash and silver beet. The sausages had been locally made, the potatoes were mashed with kumera (like a sweet potato but without the sweetness and they have a coarser texture), and the fresh silver beet was certainly much better than chard in the UK. We have also had fresh asparagus twice (Coromandel Peninsula), and the area along the Bay of Plenty grows avocados, kiwifruit, strawberries and blueberries. We bought some avocados (probably last years) and strawberries are nearly ready to be picked but will probably miss out on these. Lunch tomorrow will be the smoked Orange Ruffy fish we bought in Coromandel Town.

So tomorrow will be the beginning of the trip around the East Cape. That is after we flush the waste water out. We forgot to empty the grey water today and after a day of it sloshing around in the tank there is a sewer like smell coming from the drain hole in the sink! Luckily there is a plug.