Rodez to Brive-la-Gaillarde

We spent quite a lot of time in the car today, but did not cover a great distance, due to the narrow winding roads.   I also had a perfect opportunity to practise hill starts, and was pleased to note that I did not roll back once.  Plenty of sharp turns and long drops added to the excitement of the day.

The countryside was spectacular, with deep ravines, rolling countryside and plenty of forest, interspersed with fields.  There were some vineyards, usually at the top of hills were there was consistent sunshine.

This morning I walked past McDonalds to a local patisserie where I bought whole meal baguettes, a healthy option, as against the popular white baguettes.  We certainly had to chew them carefully.  Good exercise for the jaw.  

We then set off, in the direction of Cahors, with the intent of turning off this road, in order to visit Chateau de Belcastel.  The road in was very narrow, in fact we expected at any minute to finish up at a farm house.  Then the chateau came into view.  And what a view.  A stone fortress clinging to the side of the cliffs at the bottom of a deep gorge. 

After driving down a very steep, narrow and twisty road, we found that there was a one way route around the chateau and village, in order to reach the car park.  This required very tight corners and hill starts, quite challenging.

But all so worth it in the end.

Walter posing on the old and narrow bridge.  We watched someone carefully drive across the bridge, and made a mental note not to take this route back to the main road.

The Church of St Mary Magdalen, built in 1438 in an attempt to unify waring tribes, who lived on opposite sides of the river.

The humpback bridge, built at the same time as the church, and is typical of the medieval period.

The chateau high above, with the village houses below it.  It was built about 1040 by Willian de Belcastel, as a chateau-fort.  It is now privately owned and is being restored.

Coffee time.  So welcome after the car journey here.   A very pleasant cafe, set beside the camping ground with one large motor home in it.  I would not fancy driving a motorhome on those roads.   Lovely camping ground.

We then drove back up the steep hill again, and across the rolling hills, and through picuresque villages to another gorge, where we drove on yet another narrow road beside the River Ouche.  The water in this river was reddish brown due to the red sandstone.  Most unusual.  Our destination was another village that clung to the cliffs.  Conques, built in the year 1000.  It felt as if we were stepping back in time when we entered this village.

The road that we travelled up over the hill behind the village to get to the carpark was again a driving feat, and not made for cars.  A very popular village for tourists to visit, and for people wanting to explore the surrounding forests or ride bicycles along the gorge.  The views over the valley were impressive, my apologies as I forgot to include a photograph.

We found a delightful restaurant, and sat in the cool shade of a wisteria vine, on the balcony, in order to eat an assortment of food on a plate, namely salad, local ham and cheese and a small plate of potatoes with cheese on top, lardons and an unidentified meat.  Delicious.  Best not to think of the origins of the meat though. I drink some Perrier water, more expensive than the wine, and Walter had a small beer. A perfect lunch on a Sunday.

The village circles the church, St Foy, and the Benedictine monastery.  This is a Romanesque abbey, visited by thousands of Santiago de Compostela's pilgrims since the 11th century.

When we walked inside we were taken aback by the narrowness, and height of the nave.  A church built to impress but lacking in space on the ground on the narrow edge of the cliff face.

After the village we meandered along the road in the gorge, before the road climbed out, and up into the rolling hills above.   Walter took over driving at that point, as I felt the need to have a little nap, which was not a good idea whilst at the steering wheel.  Walter drove along a scenic road to the town of Aurillac, and then on to a very ugly place, with commercial areas, and other assortments of ugly development.  This is where we are staying in a slightly run down Ibis Budget hotel.  

The map of Brive-la-Gaillarde, shows a very historical town, and pretty, but as interesting as it may be, we decided instead to stay put, and eat left over wholemeal baguette, with a little cheese. It was even chewier than this morning.  It definitely must be good for us.  There is one left and we are contemplating eating it for breakfast. One must not waste food.  We may have to dip it in our tea, in order to soften it.

Perhaps we may have apricots for breakfast.   Surely we do not need so many for jam.