Copenhagen

We rose bright and early this morning, had breakfast and Walter went off to complain about the dryer, and received a 100 kroner refund (about £10).  There was a problem, as the heating light had not come on, so therefore the dryer did not heat up.   However we found that the caravan was large enough to dry clothes inside at night, unlike the motorhome.  So that was definitely good news.

We are staying in a campimg ground on the northern edge of Copenhagen.  It is called Charlottenlund Fort Campsite.  

And yes it was an old fortress, constructed in 1886-87, and functioned as a fortress for the defense of Copenhagen Harbour until 1932.   The ablutions block is in one of the buildings built into the hillside.  There are toilets, showers, laundry, kitchen with dining tables and a loungeroom with comfortable chairs plus a television screen all inside the room in the hill.

The guns, still in place but are no longer able to fire shells, thankfully.

The camping ground is in the middle of the Charlottenlund Beach on the shores of Oresund Sound.  The beach is apparently excellent for bathing.  No sharks obviously but also more importantly, no polluted waters either, we hope.  Too cold for swimming at the moment so I have not tested the waters.

I have taken the photograph of the harbour of Copenhagen, eight kms away.

The people here are extremely friendly and helpful, and within three hours two students had stopped and asked if we needed help with directions.  Altogether we have found the people to be very similar to people in northern Germany and the Netherlands, so we feel quite at home.

The other similarity to those two countries, is the biking culture, and there are nearly as many cyclists here as in the Netherlands.  As in northern Germany there is not always space on the roads for separate cycle paths, but they manage to give priority to cyclists, by reducing the width of footpaths, or making shared footpaths, and ensuring there are clear cycle markings on the road.  Cars or buses do not drive or park on the cycle ways.

Interestingly buses stop on the road, and passengers cross the cycle paths to board the buses.  Buses and cyclists get priority on the roads.  England, and London especially, have much to learn, although Boris is trying hard in London.  But attitudes have to change somewhat.

The thoughtful council in Copenhagen have inserted smooth walking paths between the cobblestones.  Great for wheelchair users and buggy pushers and for those with tired feet.  We were most impressed and grateful for the smooth paths.

Our first morning.  The Lonely Planet guide suggested taking a boat trip.  And this proved to be a great way to orientate ourselves, as we followed our map during the trip.  The sun was also shining.  This always makes such a difference to temperment and attitudes towards a city.

All the major tourist attractions were pointed out, plus the tour went through Christianshavn, which is now a very upmarket housing development on the other side of the old area of Copenhagen.  But much of it was once a navel and military area, and I think a little run down.

We came back along the older part of Copenhagen.   The dome in the photograph below is a restaurant.  No problems with the cold in there.

Where are we? Florence or Copenhagen?  This is a copy of the statue of David.  A present from the city of Florence apparently.

Aah, a photograph of the Little Mermaid.  Or at least the back of it, with children trying to clamber up.   Certainly not worth the long walk to get there, but as it was part of the boat trip, I took advantage of a photo opportunity.

Back on dry land again.  After a very expensive lunch, toasted sandwich with a bit of salad and a small scoop of mashed potato, we set off to find the Nationalmuseet to find out a little bit about the history of Denmark.

But first a photograph of Christiansborg Slot, once a palace and now the parliament buildings. 

The back of Christiansborg Slot, with an enormous gravelled space, beautifully raked but fenced off to stop big and little feet messing it up.  A parade ground?  A horse training area?  Looks impressive anyway.

Now these trees look as manicured as the Dutch ones.  Well perhaps not as precisely clipped, no pruned trees can be as perfect as those in the Netherlands.

The Nationalmuseet.   The entrance hall was very light and airy and warm.  We drank a lovely cup of coffee there and soaked up the warm light from above.  But not before we had spent a few hours browsing through the exhibits.

That is us, reflected a two mirrors.  Just a little bit of fun, in between the serious browsing.

We did not look at the Danish Prehistory area, but perhaps we should have as I read afterwards, too late, that is was very good.  We covered the Danish Middle Ages and Renaissance, Prince's Palace - Interiors and History and the Stories of Denmark.

A photograph of part of the Prince's Palace.   One of the Princes lived in this building at some point in the past.  I think I must have been a bit overloaded with information at that point.

We found the museum very interesting, and we gained from it an understanding that Denmark was very similar to Northern Germany, the Netherlands and England.  Each country tended to influence each other, in social customs, clothing, food and culture.  And it made us realise why we felt so comfortable being in Copenhagen.

However the museum did tend to gloss over many of the countries less positive periods in its history, such as the English trashing Copenhagen during the Napoleonic Wars, the burning of the city twice in the 18th Century, the decimation of the population due to the bubonic plague, the Nazi occupation, the slums that covered a large part of the city and the uprising of students in the 1960s/70s.

However there is much Denmark can be proud of;  the progressive government and attitudes of people which resulted in collective farming, an early welfare system and freedom for children.

A scene from a farmer's house.   Quite wealthy I would say.

Then it was time to catch the 1A bus back to the camping ground.

And yes the people dress very smartly here, so thank goodness I bought some new clothes.  I certainly do not wish to stand out too much.  Like the people in the Netherlands, they dress in a stylish but understated way, and what they wear is always functional.  After all, they have bicycles to ride and this is not possible in high heels and short skirts, if you are a woman, that is.