The importance of rivers

Lake Albert (with the pelicans) below is the smaller of the two lakes, with Lake Alexandrina being the much larger lake.

The water in these lakes comes from the River Murray, and the water exits into the Southern Ocean from the lakes via the Murray Mouth.    Not a large exit.    It also exits into the water in the Coorong.  Before Europeans settled in Australia the large scale fresh water coming down the river was enough to fill the lakes and keep the seawater out of them.

After European settlement water drawn from the Murray and the rivers that flow into the Murray slowed the water flowing into the lakes and then out through the Murray Mouth.   The natural flushing system was being destroyed so two barrages were built in the late 1930s to stop the salt water entering Lake Alexandrina and Lake Albert.

It is a very delicate balance, and so important in keeping the lakes and the Coorong healthy, that is, the birds, other wildlife, reed beds, fish and vegetation.

During the major drought of the 2000's the water level in the two lakes dropped dramatically.   Jetties which once ran out into deep water, had cracked soil under them, with the water some distance away.   The salt levels started to rise in the water that was left.   A scary time.   Consequently the Federal Government cracked down on the amount of water being taken out of the Murray River and all the rivers that ran into it.   They also provided funding to plant grasses and red beds around the edges of the lakes.   There was a great sigh of relief when the drought finished, but I guess it gave everyone a scare.

During July and August we travelled through New South Wales and into lower Queensland and saw many of the rivers that flow into the Murray River.    Even with the restrictions in water allocations, far too much water is still being taken from them.   Queensland, a rich state, just does not seem to care about the consequences of what happens further away.    The amount of huge dams (water drawn from the rivers and stored there) which are used for cotton growing are staggering and the big agri businesses seem to get away with it.   Money talks, I guess.

The rivers that eventually run into the Murray River are:  Darling River, Murrumbidgee River, Lachlan River, Goulburn River, Ovens River, Kiewa River, Mitta Mittta River, Campaspe River, Loddon River, Warrego River, Paroo River plus water seeping out of the Great Arterial Basin.    Most of the rivers begin in the Great Dividing Range (Eastern Australia) and flow west to form part of the Murray-Darling Basin.

It is an amazing experience to tour around parts of the basin and see some of the rivers, knowing how important the water is to the health of the lakes here, and to the Coorong. 

The Murray River starts as a series of mountain streams in the eastern mountains.   It runs into an enormous dam, the Hume Dam, on the border of New South Wales and Victoria.  After that it runs mostly  along the border of New South Wales and Victoria, where all the above rivers combine or run into it.  

Only the Murray River flows through South Australia.

I have just found some facts.   The Basin covers 75% of New South Wales, 50% of Victoria, 15% of Queensland, 8% of South Australia and all of the Australian Capital Territory.  

And this is where all the water ends up.   Lake Albert (and Lake Alexandrina) with the pelicans resting on the bars relying on good clean water.   

And now for some lighter information.   Today I visited the museum which is beside the cafe/bar.   The building was once the local cheese factory.   It was purchased in 2000 and converted into a cafe and museum.    

The windmills which are part of the local museum.

I felt my age today when a large proportion of the exhibits were from the 1950s, for example the tractors in the photograph below.

                                              

The main hall of the museum, and full of household items, clothes and household appliances.

We spent most of the day reading our books and resting.    

Tomorrow we pack up and head home.   It has been a lovely 10 days here, and we certainly will be back again.

Salt Creek Revisited

Today we travelled about 60 km to Salt Creek, the second trip we have made, but this time we had a tourist brochure which described the area.   This helped considerably.    

A week ago we thought we knew where to go, and what to see, but in fact we had very little idea.   Most of our information was based on Walter's previous knowledge of the place and the fact that we have passed through here twice.   This was not enough, of course!

Salt Creek Roadhouse, now closed permanently, even the toilets were locked.

Salt Creek was named after the fresh water stream that flows through here, and into the Coorong.  It was once a thriving town, with two roadhouses, a school, the National Parks and Wildlife Service, an Ambulance Station, a Country Fire Station and many houses.    I notice there is still a Country Fire Station there but everything else has moved away or closed down.   There are still a few remaining houses, plus a coffee van further along the road.

Salt Creek can be remembered for two significant events.  The first was the discovery in 1844 of what was believed to be oil.   This turned out to be a substance called  Coorongite, a dark rubbery substance which was flammable and burnt like a candle.    The second event in 1862 was the murder of an Irish kitchen maid who worked in the tavern.   The owner of the tavern was charged with murder and later executed.   It was pretty gruesome, first rape, then murder and disposable of the body down a wombat hole.   A very horrific crime. 

Walter has very fond memories of Salt Creek, when the roadhouse above was still open, and a neighbouring property which was then called Gemini Downs.   During the 1980s he was a teacher at Nails worth High School and every year there was a geography trip to Gemini Downs,   The idea was to study the geographic elements of the local area.    

However, Gemini Downs was such a great camping ground that being there became the focus of the trip, I think.  The students were housed in the shearers quarters, while the staff occupied the cottages.   There was an indoor heated pool, sporting facilities and large grounds.   Walter, as the Home Economics teacher, was there to organise and supervise the catering side of it.

We also stayed there with Darren, Jay and Jespa in December, 2011 and the place had started to fall into ruin.  The daughter, plus son in law, of the previous owners were now running the property and they were not interested in the camping ground.   Perhaps there was no longer funding from the Government to help maintain it all.   

We stayed in our small camper van in the camping ground which was quite pleasant although the ablution block was very dated.   Darren, Jay and Jespa stayed in one of the cottages, which had to be cleaned and set up by the owners before they could enter it.   However, the place was still dusty and full of huntsman spiders.  We cooked dinner there and sat in the dining room with spiders running over the floor.   I did not envy Darren, Jay and Jespa sleeping there.   

But the property is no longer called Gemini Downs, nor is it a camping ground or holiday park.   It is just a number on a road marker.   Quite sad.   

The sun was shining a week ago.

We turned right at Salt Creek onto a gravel road called Loop Road which ran between the Princes Highway and the Coorong.    It was a beautiful drive, with the Coorong on one side at first and then bush on both sides.   There were magnificent camping spots spaced at different intervals along the road.   

A view of the Coorong.

When we reached the Princes Highway we continued east until we came to a place called 'Chinaman's Well'    During the 1850s Chinese people walked through here from Adelaide, destination the gold fields in Victoria.    They were not allowed to disembark from ships in Melbourne due to the 1955 Chinese Immigration Act which was passed by the Victorian government to restrict the influx of Chinese miners during the gold rush.    

A well was built here, with a sandstone lid.    The lid was cut from an outcrop of limestone a little further from the well.    There are also remains here of a building which was once an eating house.

We have now driven most of the length of the Coorong, which is about 140 km long.  We feel very happy about this feat, however, there is still plenty more to see and do. 

The weather improved on the drive back, and we spent a pleasant afternoon in the sunshine at the caravan park.

Not the trip we planned!

The day started with a lovely blue sky, some white clouds and a warm wind.   

So we planned to drive west along the Coorong with the end destination being Pelican Point.  We did not get there as the track was too rough, and the thought of getting stuck, with a dog in the back seat, in a National Park made us think that it would not be a good idea to continue driving on the track.

However, it is very difficult to know where the Coorong National Park begins, as often there are no signs.   And it is quite difficult to see the boundaries between farmland and National Park. But we have worked out that anything near the water or in scrub land is probably National Park.

I also realised today that I gave incorrect directions in a previous blog.   Younghusband Peninsula (the line of sandhills)  has the Southern Ocean on the other side of it, then to the north side there is the water (stretches about 140 km) and the land.   

Therefore we cannot drive north or south along the edge of the water, which is how I described the trip yesterday.  Of course one must drive East or West.   Sometimes I wonder about my sense of direction!

Our first stop today was at Long Point jetty, which was constructed in the early 2000s and has been upgraded since then.   It is used by professional fishermen and as a stop for the tourist boat from Goolwa.    

The long drop toilet stands proudly on top of the hill.

This part of the track was very smooth and wide, but once past the shacks it deteriorated somewhat.   I tried to take a photo of some of the shacks, which are small and made out of bits of timber and corrugated iron.   Some are very well made.

After returning to the main road, we decided to turn left onto another gravel road, and made a detour to settlements called Narrung and Raukkan.   We passed mainly farm land, where farmers were busily cutting crops before the rain set in this afternoon.

We  did pass another track which could have taken us to Pelican Point.   On the map it showed a heavier line.   But too late by then as we had changed our minds about the destination.

Raakkan (once called Port MacLeay) is the home of the Ngarrindjeri, and is a beautifully kept small settlement, with a school, a shop, community hall and parks.   And houses of course.   

There is a view of Lake Alexandrina, the barrages and Mt Barker away in the distance.   Unfortunately we missed the signpost for the viewing area.   Not our day.    

When we arrived we were intent on finding an old church, seen in the photograph below.  It was built in 1868 by a Ngarrindjeri stonemason called  William McHughes.    Another famous Ngrrindjeri man is the author, inventor and political leader, David Unaipon, who appears on the Australian $50 note. 

The next little settlement is called Narrung which I believe was once a busy little place.   Now it is a collection of houses, with a church and hall.   The photograph below shows the large shop that is now a home.

A few miles from Narrung there is a ferry which crosses the short channel that connects Lake Alexandrina with Lake Albert.    A very short ferry ride, but interesting all the same.

The weather changed drastically this afternoon, first the strong wind, then the heavy clouds, followed by rain.   

Outside the front gate of the Caravan Park there is an old Dairying Company building, which now houses a Cafe/Restaurant/Bar.   We had coffee there last Saturday and tonight we decided to go there for dinner.   

We both ordered Coorong mullet, caught the previous day, which was absolutely delicious.  We left only a few chips on our plates.

Walter waiting patiently for his dinner.

We were lucky to be given a table with a view of the outdoor eating area, the grass area where I threw the ball to Piper, and Lake Albert.   The weather was terrible.    

Ever onwards.  

Exploring the Coorong

Today we drove south along the Coorong, on the Noonameena Loup.    Noonameena is the name of the settlement of holiday houses on the bitumen part of the road.  

Yesterday we drove on the same road, but travelled north, and realised the views would be better if we travelled south,  so we decided to take the tour again.   We also now had the brochures from the council, so could identify landmarks.    That makes quite a difference!

The Coorong is a long strip of partly saline/partly brackish water which lies between the sandhills (called Younghusband Peninsula) on the south and the land on the north.    The Southern Ocean is on the other side of the sandhills.   The Coorong stretches about 140 km from the Murray Mouth to an area known as Chinaman's Well.   

The Coorong is a National Park, and is also a critical wetland habitat supporting hundreds of thousands of native and migratory waterbirds.

The Coorong is also the traditional lands of the Ngarrindjeri People, whose heritage and spiritual connection of the area goes back thousands of years.

A view of Younghusband Peninsula (the sandhills), and the water in-between.    We were travelling on a well maintained gravel road.   

An old church, with a house beside it.   A church in the outback, but perhaps there was a settlement here.
 

Another view of the Coorong.   I think it is mostly quite shallow water.

An old shearing shed, built in 1872, which held dances and events until the 1980s.

The National Parks and Wildlife headquarters are also on the road, but the gate was closed so we did not stop.

After the settlement of holiday houses, rather than continuing onto the main road, we took a track along the edge of the Coorong.

There were numerous camping spots along the track, plus three areas with shelters and toilets.   Permission, plus a fee I guess, must be obtained from the National Parks headquarters in order to use the camping places.

We then entered the land which belongs to the Aboriginal Trust and it is forbidden to camp in this area, however the track is on public land so can be used.

The buildings below were part of an Aboriginal mission which was established in 1876.   A group of Ngarrindjeri people built the stone buildings.

We could have continued driving along the track, until we arrived at the main road, as we have a 4 wheel drive vehicle.  However the track was now barely visible and the thought of being stuck out somewhere without a phone signal put us off somewhat.    So we turned around and drove back the way we came.   Much safer.

Dogs are not allowed in National Parks in Australia, but as we were on the edge of the Coorong, and Piper was in the car, and not getting out, we felt okay.   Not that we had a choice as we could not leave her back in the caravan.  

Another day in Paradise

Another day in paradise, mainly the lovely caravan park, where the views over the lake are ever changing, where the grass is green, and there is plenty of space, plus a lovely field across the entrance way where I can throw the ball to Piper, on green grass.

After travelling in outback areas, where thick green grass is rarely available, and where there is mostly dust, and more dust, and in different colours, it is absolutely luxurious to step out of the caravan onto thick green grass.   I feel like I am back in England.    And surprisingly the caravan floor remains clean.

On the last trip to northern New South Wales and inland Queensland, we saw plenty of what looked like grass, but it was often prickly native grass or young burrs, with horrible old prickly burrs underneath.

So all this lovely green stuff here is positively luxurious.

But first a photo of the caravans/motor homes which were lined up beside the front gate.   Unfortunately we now have them lined up beside us too, although they appear to use this part as drive through sites (during quiet times), one caravan per two sites.     

The enormous recreation facilities.   They cater for large groups, except sporting clubs and 'schoolies' (the Australian end of school celebrations for 17/18 year old students).   Both groups are notorious for out of control partying.  

The old caravan in front appears to be a bar/cafe and opens onto the inside of the facilities..   

The very long kitchen.

                                                    

The games room.

The very long bar room with barbeques on the side.   There are also another two barbeques outside the room.

The main hall, with decorations and plastic tablecloths on the table.

We have done a little touring, although it is difficult to tear ourselves away from our luxurious caravan park.

Today we drove around the edge of the water behind the line of sand hills.    I stopped to take a photograph but first I had to climb a hill.

My view of the sand hills.

We have now visited the council office and picked up heaps of brochures and maps so tomorrow we are heading out to fully explore the Coorong area.   At the moment I am reading as much as I can so the next blog should contain more information about the Coorong, which is a very significant area, environmentally.

But in the meantime we are loving this caravan park, which is definitely one of the best we have stayed in, and reasonably priced too, about $42 per night.

Pleasant Days

Peace and quiet at Lake Albert Caravan Park.    To be honest, the people from the vintage caravan rally were not noisy, but we were surrounded by caravans.   Plus it was lovely to see the people dressed up, and hearing the music and laughter coming from the kitchen/lounge area.    

Now we are on our own!   And we are enjoying it.

 The view from the window by my bed.    Not a caravan in sight.    They are there, mostly lined up by the entrance, where there are large hard standing sites.  There are also large hard standing sites at the end of the caravan park.   We are on a grass site, reserved for the smaller vans.

One of the last vintage caravans to leave, towed by an old station wagon.   Station wagons were certainly very long and low to the ground.   

                                         

I took Piper for a walk along the path in front of the shops .    A lovely walk, in the sunshine.

                                         

The view from the jetty towards the shopping area.   The jetty was once the wharf which was part of the trading area for the lakes.   In the early days of settlement water was the only way goods could be shipped in and out of remote places.   

The shady park in front of the shops.

A very old building, which now holds bric-a-brac for sale.   Plus coffee!

A line up of pelicans, no doubt looking out for fish in the water.

Tomorrow another look at the Coorong, which we started to do today, but did not get very far.   Always another day.

A restful holiday in Meningie

We are currently staying in our caravan at Lake Albert Caravan Park, which is on Lake Albert, the smaller lake in the Coorong area.    We are currently about 173 km drive from home, or less if you take a shorter route through the hills.    However, as the crow flies we are probably less than 100 km away from home, but there is an enormous lake, Lake Alexandrina, with the extension of Lake Albert, plus a few hills, between us and home.

The Coorong is a 140 km long coastal lagoon and estuarine wetland system located where the River Murray meets the Southern Ocean.    But more about that in a later blog.     This is an extremely significant area, and one which is often under threat.    It is worthwhile finding the area on Google Earth, to give some idea of the location.     That is if you live elsewhere in Australia or in another country.  

A late afternoon view of Lake Albert.  

We arrived here to find ourselves in the middle of a vintage caravan rally, some with old cars painted to match the caravans.

The rally included dressing up in period costume, competitions, live music, food and plenty of fun.   

The caravan in the photo below was a beautifully restored wooden caravan with a tent attachment.    The modern ones are still popular in Australia.

                                         

The tiny one next to us (no photo) was built in 1947.    Certainly Walter and I would not fit into it, height or length wise.

The blue caravan below was also tiny, with a car to match.   Most of the caravans were similar to the white caravan with the yellow stripe.

Another caravan and car duo, yellow this time.

The blue caravan, folded down, and ready to be towed away.   A slow trip home, I think.

And today, Monday, most of the caravans have left, with only a few dotted around the park.

I love the pathway running beside the caravan park, with its avenue of stubby gum trees.

The caravan park has lots of interesting pieces of sculpture, but I thought the pelican carved into a tree stump was the best.   Someone has left a bone on top.

Piper and I posing in front of a statue of an ostrich.   Now I know we have emus but obviously the original bird was an ostrich that was imported into the country.   Apparently a very small man (about the height of a seven year old) used to ride the ostrich, and spent his time robbing people, with rumours of a few murders too.    

Piper is relaxing beside me as I write this blog, no doubt dreaming of all the birds at the waters edge.   The ones she would love to chase, if only they would step ashore.    As she is on a lead, there would be no chance of doing any damage, but the thought is there.

Tomorrow we are going for a drive along the edge of the Coorong National Park.