The Darling River Run

The Darling River Run is a road trip along the Darling River. which has many historical towns, Aboriginal cultural heritage sites, natural scenery and plenty of wildlife, although some not native, e.g. the goats.

Most of the roads are unsealed, which means they require 4 wheeled drive vehicles to navigate them.   However, there is still plenty to see for people like us who need to stay on sealed roads (our caravan, not the car).

The Darling River can be started at either end, and for us it began at Wentworth where the Darling River meets the Murray River.    The order of the towns and settlements after Wentworth are Pooncarrie, Menindee, Wilcannia, Tilpa, Louth, Bourke and Brewarrina, where the Barwon and Darling Rivers meet.

There is plenty of controversy about the use of the Darling River, as with the Murray River, and all the other rivers that join the Murray on its way from the mountains in New South Wales to the sea in South Australia.    Overusing the water in the rivers, greed, poor decisions, too many authorities, droughts and many other practices have all played their part in potentially destroying our river system.   Of course, those of us that live in South Australia see the end result as the Murray River meets the sea not far from where we live.

We are currently in Menindee, on the edge of one of their lakes.    The place of magnificent sunsets.

But more about Menindee later.   After leaving Wentworth, where we spent a week way back in April 2023, we drove to Pooncarie, where we stopped for lunch.   A small settlement now, but once a thriving river Port.    Last time we ate a most delicious lunch at a cafe by the Darling River.    Yesterday we did not even catch a glimpse of the river from the main road.

I notice that many towns around here have showers in their public toilets blocks for the people who are free camping.    No staying here overnight though.   However, a very good service.

The Pooncarie Hotel.

The road between Pooncarie is now fully sealed (2023) for the entire 123 km.   A beautiful road, and hardly any traffic.   The mist also lifted and we drove in brilliant sunshine.  The countryside was very green after the recent rain.

We arrived in Menindee at 3 p.m. and booked into the closest camping ground to the town.   There are plenty of free campsites here but only two camping grounds, and both of them in need of much love and attention.   We have stayed in worse places though.

Not much green grass here, although we have found a couple of patches for Piper's toilet spots.   She is not an outback dog.

The soil here is a brown colour, but outback soil can come in various shades, white, red, black and variations in between.   The main similarity is that the dust manages to get into the tiniest of holes in the car and caravan, and that the dust turns to glue when wet.   

We were very happy with our site here, as it overlooks Menindee Lake.    The current owners are making good progress with renovations, including new power points, a huge camp kitchen, new water tanks, new washing machines, and a new security gate.    There is no drinking water here though, but we have our boxes of spring water so not a problem.   We have learnt over the years that it is best to carry bought drinking water, as bore water is pretty awful even with a filter on the tap, and the constant changing of water systems does not do the stomach any good.    

They have had some heavy rain here by the look of the huge ruts in the road at the front entrance.   I am not looking forward to driving the caravan over them on the way out tomorrow.

I thought I saw mice skins by our caravan this morning.   There must have been a mice plague and the mice have been poisoned.   

But no, the '/skins' were the husks from the seeds on the tree below.  I pointed them out to Walter, but he could not see the similarity.   No imagination!

The population of Menindee is currently about 530 people.   A town struggling to survive, although people from Broken Hill come here to use the lakes for boating and fishing.    That is when there is no blue-green algae.    However before 2002 there were 3000 people living here, and it was a thriving centre for a fruit growing industry.    Due to the hot dry climate and a good water supply they grew citrus fruits and table grapes, all of which ripened months before any other area.   

Then the Millennium drought (2002+) hit the area.    This drought went on the years, as it did in South Australia, and destroyed the fruit growing industry.     The lakes and rivers dried up so irrigating orchards and vineyards was no longer viable.    A typical story of trying to tame the outback terrain. 

The Post Office was one of the few magnificent buildings in the town.

                                             

Originally there were many natural shallow lakes here, which were fed by the Darling River when it flooded, and then dried out when there was little water in the river.    When Broken Hill was first settled the water for the mines came from the Menindee Lakes, with the help of trains on the new Sydney to Broken Hill railway line.   That is, the water was loaded onto wagons behind the train.

There is now a huge water pipe connecting the lakes to Broken Hill (100 km away) so the lakes are the main water source for the city.

But of course it did not end there, the Federal (or State Government) decided to put a large weir (plus smaller weirs) on the river to divert the water into more little lakes.   This of course messed up the whole natural watercourse and caused no end of problems, including rapid evaporation of water from the new lakes as they were too shallow.  Plus the interference did nothing for this part of the Darling River.  Also the water in the new lakes spread across sacred Aboriginal sites.  

One of the smaller weirs on the river, which has a road running over it.    This weir is in the Kinchega National Park.    We were only able to drive a short distance into the park as dogs are not allowed in National Parks in Australia.    This national park  was once a sheet station and is seen as a very positive asset to the area.    The small part that we saw was very impressive.

We then drove around the edge of Pamamaroo Lake which had some free camping areas, all very picturesque.    The main weir on the Darling River is on the edge of this lake.   We were travelling in the opposite direction so did not visit the weir.    The dirt road was covered in corrugations.   A bit of a bumpy ride although our car managed it very well.

Six emus ran across the road in front of us.   By the time I stopped the car, got my camera out, I could only see one on the hill side.   

The old railway station, which is still used  to connect to other towns, although I am not sure if a bus company stops here, rather than a train.   The Indian Pacific (Perth to Sydney) travels on this line, plus goods trains.

And tonight another red sunset.

Tomorrow we will drive to the edge of Broken Hill, destination Wilcania.

On the road again

We spent a frantic week fixing a couple of leaks in the caravan, plus picking all the rotted wet wood out in the inner front corner.   Thanks to Emma for her brilliant work in replacing the wood and edging above the door.

This caravan has not been one of our better purchases, although it is very comfortable inside.    We have had a litany of repairs done to the van plus leaks fixed, and panels replaced.     We are not sure if it is just wear and tear, or the result of an accident or extreme weather.   The van is about 18 years old.  However the staff at Noel's Caravans, which is meant to be a very reputable caravan dealer, were not entirely honest with us when we bought it.   Anyway we are still out and about, and enjoying tripping around.   Fingers crossed we have now solved the last of the leaking problem.

But I digress.     We are on the way to Queensland, we think, with no real set plan, but we would prefer some warm weather, without rain, which may not be possible as South Australia and western New South Wales have had wave after wave of rain.   Great for the countryside, but not for us travellers.

So far, we have driven through the hills from Aldinga Beach, onto the expressway heading east, and then made a sharp turn north at Murray Bridge towards the River land and the Murray River.    We stopped at Karoonda Caravan Park one night and now we are in Mildura, Victoria.

Karoonda was such a find, on the Murray Bridge to Loxton road.  It is 160 km east of Adelaide  and is situated in the Mallee which is a wheat growing area of South Australia.   It is a prosperous town, with well cared for gardens and streets, and all the shops are occupied, which makes such a change.   However, like many successful small towns the success has been due to the many immigrants who have taken over the shops.

I took Piper up the main street to have a look at what was to offer.    The many sign posts.

                                         

The painted silo, which is apparently lit up at night time.

Our car and caravan nestled between small trees.    The tree on the right caused me a few anxious moments as it was leaning over the caravan,  but I thought it probably has been like this for a while.    So not likely to fall on the particular night we were parked there.   And it did not do so!

There was a lovely Pioneer Village in the town, which looked interesting and was free as well.   But sadly we needed to drive quite a distance to Mildura.

Mildura is situated in northern Victoria, just across the border from South Australia.    It is a large fruit growing area, mainly citrus, stone fruits, almonds and table grapes.    It relies heavily on water from the River Murray. 

The weather in Mildura has been very cold with misty nights which last until about 1 p.m.   When the sun comes out it is very pleasant, and for two days I have been able to sit outside with my face to the sun. 

The view of the Murray River from our camping ground.

Mildura had beautiful parks and paths along the River Murray, which we enjoyed using every afternoon.

There were many river boats moored along the sides of the river.

We visited Orange World, where we were entertained with stories of life on a citrus orchard, as well as much factual information about the growing of citrus fruits.   Plus information about irrigation techniques and the effects on both the land and the Murray River.    

Underneath the top layer of soil there is salt, and the frequent watering of the fruit trees brings the salt to the surface, which then kills the trees.    So of course they need to wash the salt away, and up until about twenty years ago the salt was flushed into the Murray River.    And ended up in South Australia.    During the drought in the mid 2000s, the water levels in the Murray dropped, fish died and the lake at the end of the river, Lake Alexandrina, became very salty.

Now the salty water overflow is sent to an area not far from Mildura, where it dries, and salt is produced and sold, which apparently is sought after as it has minerals in it too.

I mentioned the word mallee area earlier.    Mallee country was originally made up of shrubby trees, which were cleared to make way for pastures and fruit growing closer to the river.    Sadly it was found that once the mallee shrubs were removed salt came to the surface and some of the land became unusable.   It was apparent that mallee roots kept the salt down in the soil.    Never disturb nature should have been the motto.    

It was a lovely ride around the farm, with lots of information and interesting tales.

I managed to spend a bit of money there, namely a bag of delicious oranges, a jar of orange flavoured honey and a jar of orange marmalade.   

We also spent plenty of money in the shopping mall and large shops which lined a major road.   These shops take away the custom from the town centre, but unfortunately the items we needed to buy could only be obtained from the outlying shops.  Bunnings, BCF, KMart to name just a few of the big shops.

Tomorrow we head north to the Menindee Lakes.

Out and about in Houten, NL

Although I am now back in Aldinga Beach, I still have some photographs to share with you.

Some of the following photographs relate to Koningsdag, which is a national holiday to celebrate the King's birthday.   King Willem-Alexander is the current King of the Netherlands.

The celebrations include partying, wearing orange costumes, flea markets, concerts, and traditional local gatherings.

Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands due to the House of Oranje-Nassau, the Dutch royal dynasty, and its founder, Willem of Oranje, who led the country to independence in 1544. 

The flag is now red, white and blue although it started off as orange, white and blue.

So on Koningsdag there is orange, orange and more orange.

The local delicacy. Tompoes or Tompouce, is made from pastry, custard cream and icing.   It looks similar to the Australian vanilla slice, however not as good.

Walter and me, eating out slices of Tompoes.    We were very happy with it, and no complaints.

Walter dressed in an orange polo shirt and orange socks, while I wore an orange hat, with red, white and blue bows clipped on, plus orange socks.    All appropriate for the day.

Kylie took me to the flea market, absolutely huge and covered a large number of streets.   On this day people sell items they no longer use, plus a couple of people selling new items.   I bought a second hand jacket plus a glass bird to put in the garden.

Later on in the morning the path was filled with people.  Kylie in front of me, dressed in her new orange fleecy jacket.

The bars were filled with drinkers dressed in orange clothes.   The music was very loud and went on to about 11 pm

There was also a band and stalls in the Rond on the previous evening.   And much drinking, plus the aftermath of plenty of vomit around.    The street cleaners were very busy during the Koningsdag!

Walter, standing outside our favourite cafe, the Barista.    

The stage being set up for Koningsdag..

Kylie took me to visit two garden centres.   I was in my element.    I loved the stands of artificial flowers.

Artificial chrysanthemums.

And more artificial flowers.

Displays in the garden centre.

A beautiful display of flowers.

The trees rapidly went from brown branches to green leaves during the three weeks.

The white wisteria in front of Aaron and Kylie's house.   

The gardens on our walk between our apartment and Aaron and Kylie's house.

Cherry blossoms.    The lilac bushes were also out in flower.

The courtyard in Aaron and Kylie's house starting to show its colour.   The tree in the pot is a fig.

Their lovely sunny courtyard.

The woodland behind their house.

Aaron and Kylie's house just visible through the trees.

A view of our apartment block, through the glass at the railway station.    Sadly the present owners are currently selling off the individual apartments, with a starting price of 250,000 euros each.   

Zwolle

It was a long drive to Zwolle, but so worth it.    Such a pretty city, with plenty to see.    

In the 8th century merchants settled here, on the Zwarte Water.   Zwolle probably comes from the Latin 'Suolle' meaning a high altitude area that remains dry during floods.  It became a member of the German Hanseatic League, and became n important trading city in the 15th century.

We crossed the outer river before entering the city centre.

A leaning house.   

The city centre was very busy, as it was a Friday and market day.

Lunch at a lovely cafe, unfortunately we had to sit in the shade, the only table left.   The Dutchies love the sunshine.    There was a very steep staircase up to the toilets, which is not unusual.   A delicious lunch.

I have finally learnt how to cut a kroket in order to place it on a buttered piece of bread, with mustard on top.   It has to be cut lengthways, otherwise you end up with quite a mess.   Our lunch also came with tomato soup and a roll with a slice of raw beef.    

A narrow street, bathed in sunshine.

The lovely carpet in the Grote Church, or St Michaelskerk.    An enormous church, which now has a cafe and second hand bookstore in it.    Plus a huge and well preserved organ.

Aaron reading the tour guide.

The organ.

Beautiful windows in the church.

An art display.

And to continue our walk through one of the squares.

This courtyard was the home of an educationalist, Joan Cele, during the Middle Ages.    The institute is considered the beginning of the gymnasium because of its curriculum.

I think the city was getting ready for a festival, or perhaps Koningsday, which is tomorrow.   There were plenty of pissoirs around.   Nothing for the ladies though.

The art gallery.

The city gate, the Sassenpoort, was built in 1406, and is made of brick, and decorated with natural stone.

The houses beside the gate was originally connected to the gate.   There were two gates, an inner gate and an outer gate.   When Charles, Duke of Guelders, tried to invade the city in 1524, both gates were closed as he, and his men, where passing through it.   They of course died a nasty death.

A street view of the gate.

This square was packed with restaurants and people sitting in the sunshine.

The glass statue of the Archangel Michael.

The enormous library.

And then we walked slowly back to the car park.  

Altogether a delightful day out.