Sunday 24 March 2019

Nelson to Christchurch

We have been home for a week, and as usual we have been busy, with a little recovery time as well.

The first thing we noticed on our arrival back was the extent of the dryness here.     When driving  to Aldinga we noticed that the paddocks were beginning to lose the grass, and dry dusty earth was evident everywhere.    The hotter weather has also been noticeable.   

We left Christchurch early last Saturday morning, feeling sad to leave the family behind but the tragedy in Christchurch was mostly in our thoughts.    How could this happen in such a lovely quiet city, which has had its fair share of disasters, having experienced two major earthquakes plus another one further north.    

We were totally unaware of the shootings until we arrived in Christchurch the previous afternoon, although we did wonder why there was little traffic about on the roads.   It was not until we dropped the car off that we were told that Christchurch was in lock down, with possibly two or more deaths at one of the mosques.   And the person, or group involved, where at that stage still at large.     Little did we know then that it ended up with 50 dead, in two mosques.   Andreena, in the meantime, was in the motel room receiving calls from her mother and brothers, who were getting quite concerned about us.

Our heart goes out to the families of the people concerned, who were innocently praying in their buildings of worship, and also to the people of Christchurch, who are still reeling in shock.

But back to our last few days in New Zealand, which were spent with Margaret and Gordon in Nelson.    Gordon prepared two delicious dinners for us, and made lots of biscuits and cakes, plus preserves so we were certainly a very happy little group.   

While we were there we caught up on our washing, did some shopping, and spent time catching up with Neville and Maia, Danielle, Casey and her two little children.    Altogether a very pleasant and relaxing few days.   
Nelson had been in the midst of a drought before we arrived, and the view of the surrounding hills showed brown grass and burnt looking trees.    I think that I have only ever seen a green Nelson before this.    While we were there it rained nearly every day, and by the time we left there was green grass showing through the dry grass.    

We made a visit to Mapua, in order to have lunch at the fish cafe there.    Such a pleasant place, even with the increasing number of tourists who now visit the area.    There must be no complaints as tourists bring money.

I forgot to put a photo on of the car that we hired, a,Toyota Camry, which was very roomy and the four of us travelled in comfort during the trip.    It was a pleasure to drive as well.
After saying a sad goodbye to Margaret and Gordon, the three of us continued on our way, minus Margaret of course.    We felt a bit lost without our fourth traveller, and it was quite strange for a while.   We assure you Margaret, it was not that you were the most talkative, just that it felt strange being short of one passenger.

In New Zealand there are many one way bridges, with signs to let drivers know if they have right of way or not.   Interestingly there is no reduction in speed signs before each bridge, and I often wonder whether people, especially tourists, slow down before approaching the bridges.   I also wonder how many accidents occur on the bridges, due to speed.   But I think, generally, the one way bridges work very well.
After driving over the Whangamoa Saddle, with its steep and winding roads, and through the peaceful vineyards of Malborough, we arrived at the earthquake damaged road leading into, and out of Kaikoura.     This road, the state highway between Picton and Christchurch, was destroyed during the earthquake in November, 2016.    The railway was also destroyed.      Amazingly the NZ ability to rebuild again, despite it seeming an impossible task at first, has meant the highway and railway opened within two years.

Large numbers of seals have returned to the area.
The new shoreline looks quite different, with the disappearance of some land, and a new line of rocks where the sea bed was lifted up.
The tunnels have been strengthened and in some cases rebuilt.
Where huge landslides and rockfalls occurred, they have been cleared away and retaining walls have been built to prevent further landslides.   A major engineering project.
After spending the evening confined to our motel room, we awoke extremely early as we were booked on the 6.00 flight.    There were very long queues going through security and immigration which was very reassuring.    For once I did not complain.  We flew first to Brisbane, where we waited for a couple of hours before travelling onto Adelaide.    Certainly a roundabout way of returning to Adelaide, but it meant that the connections were better.   

And now we are back to a normal routine.

A morning walk with Piper, on a nearly deserted beach.   Summer is over.
It rained this afternoon, and fingers crossed we get more of the wet stuff.    Looking forward to a bit more green.   

Wednesday 13 March 2019

A road trip - Bluff to Nelson

Two days of solid travel, from the bottom to the top of the South Island, 999 kms, 12h 27min.    However, the time does not include all the stopping or travelling at 30 kmh for road works, especially on the Lewis Pass.   This road had to include all the traffic from Blenheim to Christchurch, when Highway 1 and the Main North Line railway was swept away due to the earthquake in November 2016.    All the heavy trucks caused damage to a road that was not built for so much traffic. 

Before we set off north, we stayed for three nights at Shona's house in Wallacetown in order to spend time with her and Ollie.  It was lovely to meet Ollie and to spend time with them both.

The old playhouse, newly painted and looking very smart.
The magnificent grasses, planted by Shona and Ollie, that run along the banks of the Makarewa River.
Ollie and Shona looking relaxed on a cold morning.
A magnificent display of hydrangeas in front of the house.
While we were at Shona's house we drove down to Bluff, the most southern point of the South Island, and fought off the other tourists in order to get our photograph taken.
We walked for half an hour around the coastal path, which was beautifully set in the native bush, and offered wonderful views of the coast. 
Andreena, Walter and Margaret pausing for breath in a particularly lovely grove of bush.
A view across the sparkling sea.  I might add the weather was mild and sunny, most unusual for Buff.   My grandmother, as a very young girl, arrived here by ship with her parents   They came from County Antrim in Northern Island.   It must have been a bleak and unwelcome place in the late 19th century.
The Stewart Island ferry passing a small launch on a calm sea.   Foveaux Strait can be a very rough and dangerous stretch of water.
We also spent quite a few happy hours with Eric and Ngaire, talking about life in general and reminiscing about the past.   A very special time.   Their daughter, Carol, also called in while we were there, and it was lovely to catch up with her.
On Sunday morning we set off to travel north, via Kingston, and the road around the edge of Lake Wakatipu, in front of the mountains, called The Remarkables, which constantly change colour.  After travelling on the new bridge over the Kawarau River, we passed the ever sprawling town of Frankton, past Lake Hayes and then onto Cromwell, where we stopped to buy fruit and a berry ice cream.     We avoided Queenstown, which is overcrowded and spoilt by over commercialisation.

A view of the mountains on the other side of Lake Wakatipu.
The traffic on the road was unbelievably heavy, with coaches, motorhomes, camper vans, and tourists in cars, like us.   Added to this mix there were some very impatient and irresponsible New Zealanders, who passed everyone, regardless of the bends in the roads, or lines on the road, indicating that one must not pass vehicles on this section of road.   Luckily we had a pleasant and uneventful drive north.

We stopped at Omarama, in the middle of the McKenzie high plains, for lunch, which also afforded us a view of the dead deer on the back of a utility truck.   The result of a successful deer hunting expedition, no doubt.   A trifle off putting. 
After passing through the remote and beautiful Lindis Pass, we continued on past Lakes Pukaki and Tekapo, through Burkes Pass, and the lovely village of Fairlie, and then to Geraldine where we stopped for the night.

A view from the lookout on the Lindis Pass.
Geraldine has our favourite cafe, set in beautiful gardens, but on this occasion we went to a pub for a pleasant dinner.

The next day we set off early, and travelled initially on the scenic road which runs between the Southern Alps and Christchurch.    There were hardly any tourists travelling on this road, so therefore no impatient New Zealand drivers either.   A very pleasant trip.

We stopped at a very popular bakery in Oxford for coffee, which was excellent.   We could not resist their locally made pies, sausage rolls and toasted bread.    A bit early in the day, I know, but impossible to resist the temptation to indulge in their excellent food.
Andreena decided to put herself into the stocks outside the old prison cells.
A view of the Rangitata River, which is a braided river, that flows across the Canterbury Plains.
The changing colour of the lower hills of the Southern Alps was very special.
Another view of the same hills.
We came out onto Highway 1 above Christchurch and then turned off towards the Lewis Pass, which required much concentration due to the terrain, and the road works, which I mentioned in the first paragraph.

Once through the mountains we stopped in Murchison for the obligatory extra large ice cream.

Sadly no photographs of this part of the South Island, due to the need to get to Nelson.    The countryside was extremely brown though, with many dead trees, due to the hot and dry summer.

We finally arrived in Stoke, Nelson, at 6 pm.    A very long day.

However, we were greeted by Gordon, who gave us beer and wine, which revived us.   He had also cooked us a delicious dinner. and we went off to bed feeling very happy and relaxed.

A view of Isel House, in its magnificent park, which is just around the corner from Margaret and Gordon's house.    Stormy skies.    However they desperately need rain.

Thursday 7 March 2019

Travelling further south - New Zealand

After leaving Wanaka we travelled first to Clyde in Central Otago, and then on to Invercargill, with lots of family get togethers.   We are loving it.

We caught up with David and Catherine at their lovely large holiday house in Clyde.   It was also David's 70th birthday too.    Yes David and Brian are twins so Brian sent some of his birthday cake along to share with David.    

Catherine cooked blue cod and white bait fritters for the birthday dinner.    A very special meal.    For people who are not New Zealanders, these are local delicacies.   The blue cod is a fine fish caught in the deep sea south of here, and the white bait is caught in the local river mouths.   The white bait is a very tiny soft white fish, cooked in a light batter.  
 While in Clyde we went for plenty of long walks, around the streets, down to the cafe for coffee and to look at the old cemetery, with its hundreds of rabbit holes.   Apparently the cemetery had this problem a hundred years ago, an ongoing one I think.

 We never tire of walking around Clyde, a small place surrounded by mountains, and a fast flowing river.  The holiday houses, with some permanent ones, have interesting gardens and lots of ideas for garden designs.

When we walked through the tunnel underneath the main road, it was covered with murals painted by a New Zealand artist.   My apologies as I did not write his name down.    The paintings were scenes from the bicycle track which starts in Clyde and runs through much of central Otago.   They were very good.
We sat in the green and shady gardens of a local cafe and ate delicious ice creams, with raspberries.   The sky was a brilliant blue.
The gardens at the cafe.    I might add that the temperate climate has brought moisture to my skin and finally healed the battered sun burnt lips. 
I thought Walter, Steve, Jackson and Isabel would love the huge courgettes on sale at the fruit and vegetable stall in Clyde.   A vegetable that none of them really like.   At least I did not let my courgettes grow so large.
We travelled from Clyde down to Invercargill and stayed at David and Catherine's house in Invercargill.    Their children and grandchildren came for dinner on two nights and we had a lovely time catching up on all the news.    I cannot believe how much the grandchildren have grown during the past two years.

A line up of Catherine, me, Andreena, Margaret, David and Lucy, the cute dog.
David took us for a journey along the south tourist route.   The first stop was the museum at Riverton, which is one of the best I have visited.   As well as being filled with the history of Riverton, it also provides visual effects that have quite an impact.   It makes one really understand about the Maori tribes that lived here, and how they were integrated into the early European settlement.
A view of  the Aparima estuary .
The photograph below is of Colac Bay.   Not the most flattering photograph of a very beautiful bay.   We used to have a holiday house here, and spent many a holiday on the beach, jumping from rock to rock and exploring the local area.   
We ate lunch at an upmarket cafe in the ghostly deserted settlement of Orepuki.   Orepuki was once, well probably 100 years ago, a thriving small town.   Originally it was probably larger than Invercargill, but it has declined somewhat and now houses a pub, a few run down houses, a football field, and derelict shops.   Plus the cafe, which is on the tourist trail and  has the most delicious food.

The photograph below is of a derelict shop, not the upmarket cafe.
Finally, after much reminiscing, we arrived at the end of the Waiau River, on the western end of the south coast, not far from the town of Tuatapere, where David and Catherine have a shack, which in our terms is more like a holiday house.    It can be a wild, stormy area but on the day of our visit it was warm and sunny.
A rest inside the house, which is beautifully appointed and has all the luxuries one would expect from a holiday house.
A view of the mouth of the Waiau River, with the southern ocean behind it.   David and his son, James, go whitebaiting at the mouth of this river.
David has a little caravan, very comfortable, plus a toilet trailer, which he places by the river, in order to rest comfortably, while he waits for the white bait to swim into his nets.    No sense in roughing it too much.
We went for a walk around Invercargill and took a couple of photographs of the area that is going to be redeveloped during the next few years.   The heart has gone out of the shopping area of Invercargill, plus most of the old buildings have been rated as not up to earthquake standards, which means they are not occupied at present.    Very sad.

However the flower display in Esk Street was very colourful.
The Cambridge Arcade, with its beautiful tessellated floor, will be no more soon.    There are no shops in there anymore.  Oh well, progress.
Today we went for a drive through Ryal Bush, which is where I lived for the first 19 years of my life.   It is hard to believe that it was once a thriving community, with a shop, garage, hall, church and school.    As they were all wooden buildings they have disappeared, with only a new classroom, used by a playgroup, in the grounds of the old school.    The school once had tennis courts, football field, and swimming pool, all gone. 

The two monkey puzzle trees still stand proud on the front lawn.   Funny that the grounds do not seem as large as they were when I was a child.   Perspective!
My old home, badly in need of a coat of paint.   Again the house seemed tiny compared to the home I remembered.
We celebrated our tour with a lunch of oysters in batter, deep fried with chips, plus coleslaw to make it a healthy meal.   
Deep fried oysters in batter are a real Southland delicacy.   It is the beginning of the oyster season here, and these ones have been dredged from the sea.   No oyster farming here.
A view of the Basilica behind the trees.
A drive to Oreti Beach completed the day.   This is where Burt Munro, the World's Fastest Indian, raced his motorcycle during the 1950s.   

That is our rental car, which did not get bogged on the beach, by the way.   The sand was very hard here.
Andreena testing the water.   I notice that she did not attempt to go for a swim.   A bit cold I think.
Finally a walk along the edge of the estuary and a selfie photo.     Andreena is getting pretty good at taking a selfie photo.
And we continue our journey and special times with the family.