Cesky Krumlov

We are in the south western part of the Czech Republic, not far from the border with Austria.   The reason for our visit is to visit the town of Cesky Krumlov.

It is also very wet, and cold.   As I write this I am sitting with a rug over my knees.   The heater is also on.   And summer starts tomorrow but we can see by the forecast that the weather is not going to improve too much.   However, we have decided to forget about the rain, dress accordingly and enjoy the beautiful scenery.   So today I set forth, in a fleece jacket, rain jacket, waterproof trousers, and an oversized umbrella.   Consequently I was no longer cold or wet.  

This photograph of the motor home was taken before we left the campsite, Camping Dolni Pocernice, in Prague, and at this stage we were concerned about getting bogged in the mud.   But thankfully no.   It had rained heavily all night, and the camping ground was a mess of mud and water.   Most people left that morning, heading south in order to get some hot weather, I think.

And now we are in Camping Chvalsiny, another ACSI camping ground, run by people from the Netherlands.   It is more like Camping Netherlands, as nearly all the campers are Dutch.  The facilities, which are very new, are excellent, the showers even have under floor heating.   It is set in farmland, close to the village of Chvalsiny.

A view of the campsite from the small lake.   It stopped raining for a while this afternoon.

 But back to the reason why we are here, and that is to visit Cesky Krumlov, which is 11 kms from the campsite.   The castle is situated on a hill above the bend of the river Vltava, with the town spread out beneath it, on both sides of the river.

I will first focus on the castle.   A long story, and I apologise, as I know the names mean nothing to people, but I am determined to get the families sorted out. For my sake, anyway.  

There was a Gothic stronghold here in the 13th Century, but the Rosmberks were mainly responsible for the stronghold taking on the appearance of a castle.  For a brief time the castle was managed by the Habsburg family.  Then it was taken over by the Eggenbergs in 1622 and in 100 years they managed to transform the castle into a magnificent renaissance chateau.   After the Eggenbergs died out by 1719,  Cesky Krumlov's destiny was in the hands of the Schwarzenbergs.   They completed more renovations, including the Baroque theatre and the summer house in the gardens.    The final owner was Dr Adolf Schwarzenberg, who had to leave it during WWII, and flee to the USA.   In 1947 he tried to contest his rights to the ownership of the castle, but was defeated and the castle was taken over by the state.   Phew!

We walked through the main gate and looked up and there was a most magnificent building.  We went on a guided tour of the main castle and saw the most beautiful rooms, but unfortunately we were not allowed to take photographs.    The tour guide gave a very interesting talk though, and some of the historical facts started to fall into place, as she explained the paintings and decorations in the rooms.  I was fascinated by all the huge brown bear rugs in the rooms.  But no, they were not shot, but rather died, and then made into rugs.  Bears were kept for centuries in the old moat, and there were three there today.  So no falling into the moat!

We walked along the passageway under the windows above, and received a wonderful view of the town of Cesky Krumlov.   The river below was a raging torrent, due to the heavy rain.

We looked down from the other side of the walkway and could see our motor home nestled among the trees.   I have the camera on 'zoom' as the van was a long way below.

A view of the castle tower, and part of the castle.   This part of the castle now houses a museum, which opened in January 2011, and was also very interesting as well.

One of the courtyards in the castle.  The wall of the castle is plaster, which has a brick work pattern painted on, to give it a 3D brick effect.   There were other buildings in the town that had received the same treatment.   The art technique is called Tromp l'oeil which is designed to create an optical illusion.

All the rooms in the castle had large, and sometimes enormous, ceramic heaters, which were fed coal from steel hatches with metal doors, outside in the corridors.   This meant the occupants of the rooms were not disturbed.   What a big job.    The heaters were all on today, but I guess they are gas or electrically heated now.   I forgot to ask!

The town below the castle, was built over various centuries, with Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance buildings, with narrow winding streets circling the town square.

We were too slow setting off from the carpark, and got mixed up in a tour group, which would have been okay normally, but it was raining heavily and there were umbrellas everywhere.

 Walter looking very comfortable under his large umbrella.    No photos of me though, in all my wet weather gear.

 During the communist era many of the buildings looked like this, crumbling stone and plaster, and peeling paint.   Now this is the only building left to be renovated.   Much work has been done in the past 20 years.

 A view along a narrow side street, with St Vitus Church towering above the buildings.   The church was decidedly German inside, but when the church was built the borders were not so defined as they are now.

 The Town Square, which is overlooked by the Gothic Town Hall.   My photograph of the Town Hall was not good.

 More buildings in the Town Square.

Another street in the town of Cesky Krumlov.   I would like to point out that the buildings do not lean as much now.   I am obviously developing a better eye for photographing them, or I am becoming used to holding an umbrella while using the camera.

 Lunch today was pork with potato pancakes and sauerkraut for Walter, and deep fried Camembert cheese with boiled potatoes, washed down with beer (Walter) and wine (me). and a wonderful view of the flooded river.   Perfect.

And finally home again, and a walk before the rain started again.

A view through the trees of the church in Chalvsiny.

 Off through the countryside to BRNO which is in the eastern corner of the Czech Republic.  I think.

Prague Castle

Prague Castle is the biggest castle in the world.   It actually feels more like a small town.  The castle was started during the 9th Century and has been developed and modified ever since.  Originally the residence of Bohemian princes and rulers, since 1918 it has housed the president's office and the ancient Bohemian crown jewels.  

It took us all morning to get to the castle, which is on the other side of the River Vltava, and a short distance from the Old Town.   But we became lost and spend ages trying to find the correct tram to take us to the castle, which is on top of a hill.  We also became a little sidetracked by other interesting sites on the way.   And coffee of course.

St Vitus Cathedral which dominates the sky line.   It is a French Gothic structure begun in 1344 by Emperor Charles IV, but not completed until 1929.   A long project.

 The palace gardens.

 The main entrance to the palace, with the palace guards standing in front.   Their uniforms, very stylish, were created by Theodor Pistek costume designer for the film, Amadeus.  I don't think I am in competition for style here, but please note the new scarf, bought from C and A.  

 One of the palace courtyards.

At lunchtime the cafe we were in, was inundated by Dutch people, dressed very smartly in black.   We found out that they were going to sing in the cathedral at 2 p.m.   And it was an excellent performance too, their voices really filled the large church, and the soloist had such a beautiful voice.  Listening to them sing was a real treat for us.

 The Bohemian crown jewels - fake of course.   The real ones are well hidden and well secured elsewhere in the castle.

 The Golden Lane, which housed all the important crafts people associated with the castle.

Above the houses in Golden Lane there was a long corridor, which now houses suits of armour but which once was part of the castle wall defences.

 And finally we walked down the hall, through the old town, and back to the railway station.

 We have really enjoyed visiting Prague, although we did not see everything we would have liked, especially the museums and the Jewish area.   But tomorrow we will leave Prague, in order to see other parts of the Czech Republic.  Ever onwards.

Prague - objects of interest

The following photographs were objects of interest, to us anyway.   Not all of them would rate as really interesting objects, tourist wise.

The statue of King Wenceslas or Prince Vaclav (921-29) on horseback.   He was a very pious man, and worked hard to spread Christianity.   He was murdered by his brother Boleslav the Cruel.   As things went in those days.   Now he is a man of legend, the Czech's patron saint, and of Christmas Carol fame.  The square that runs down the hill from the statue, called Wenceslas Square has always been a focus for demonstrations and public gatherings.

 This photograph looks down the square.   In the foreground people are looking at the shrine to the victims of communism, including students Jan Palach and Jan Zajic, who burned themselves alive in 1969 protesting against the Soviet invasion.

 Walter posing in the alleyway, luckily not underneath the red banners.    The red banners mark the doorway to a Sex Machines Museum, which we did not go into, by the way.   Walter looked in the window and could see some interesting displays.   I was too modest to look!

 We went for a trip on the little train, which took us around the city for an hour.    A bone shattering trip, over cobblestones.   No suspension of course.

 There were quite a few monuments and statues, mostly religious ones, where people put their hands, and you could see where they had worn the surface away away, or polished the surface.   Can you see the area where the surface on this statue has been polished a bright bronze colour?  

I think this statue was the most interesting.  And we were left to wonder about the reasons for the area to be touched or polished.   Or was it a joke?

Prague - The Old Town Square

We walked into the Old Town Square and were overwhelmed, by the beautiful buildings, and by the sheer number of people.   But mostly by the amazing amount of activities happening in one square, all at once.  

I took this photograph straight away in order to record my first impressions of the square.   The Old Town Hall is in the background.

 There were so many tour groups there, speaking such a variety of languages.

There was a Japanese wedding tour, getting their photographs taking outside the Old Town Hall.  The bottoms of the dresses were quite dirty so we can only surmise that they came to Prague, in order to get married, and then spent the rest of their holiday having their photographs taken in different places.  Most of the brides had sneakers on, or boots.  

 The group on Sedgeways waiting for customers.   There were also a large number of people selling tours, on foot or in buses.   Often their very large umbrellas stated 'free tours' but I am sure there was a catch in it.

 The hog roast seller, with his wood stacked in neat piles.   The hog roasts smelled delicious.

The restaurant, with its outside tables, was doing a good trade.    The twin Gothic steeples of Tyn Church towers above the buildings in front of it.

The brass ensemble, not attracting much attention when this photograph was taken.   Too much going on.

 The Town Hall clock tower.   A great attraction, which draws a huge crowd.   And the pickpockets too.

 This is due to the astronomical clock springing to life every hour with assorted apostles and a bell-ringing skeleton.   'Is that all?' Walter asked, and he was right.   It was hardly worth taking the risk of getting something stolen by the pickpockets.   The lady in this car had to wait very patiently for the crowd to disperse, before driving out of the square.

The Jan Hus Monument, erected in 1915, on the 500th anniversary of the religious reformer's execution.  Jan Hus was a priest, who tried to reform the Catholic Church in Prague.

 And today a stage was set up in the square, and children from state schools in Prague, gave performances in music and dance.

Prague - the buildings

The buildings - Gothic, Renaissance, Art Nouveau, Baroque.    The styles abound.   All very picturesque and stunning.  And it is great to be immersed in the beauty of the buildings.  We wandered around and around, and I took photograph after photograph, but of course I cannot now identity the buildings or the streets.

So I have uploaded a few photographs.   No captions.  My apologies.

Prague - introduction

Well it is difficult to know where to start when describing Prague. The Lonely Planet states that 'You are lured there by the past, but compelled to linger by the present and the future'.   A fascinating city, with a strong and rich cultural and architectural heritage, yet with modern cafes, restaurants and nightclubs and interesting displays.  A vibrant and lively city.   It is also an established centre of classical and jazz music, with many theatres, and the greatest number of large booksellers I have seen in a long time.  Obviously Amazon has not had an impact in Prague yet.  

The Czech people are very friendly, and always willing to help, or give advice.   They remind me so much of the people in Bavaria.   We noticed this as soon as we came across the border from Poland and stopped at the first services on the motorway.    It quite took us aback.    But we love it, and feel very comfortable in the Czech Republic.

Prague is extremely busy though, and thronged with tourists of many nationalities.   We have heard so many Australian accents, we thought we were back in Australia.   Except when we look at the scenery around us.   Not quite the same.   

We are staying in a campsite, Camping Sokol Praha, in Dolni Pocernice, which is a 15 minute train ride into Prague central.   There is a half hour walk from the campsite to the railway station, but a staff member at the campsite runs a shuttle service in the mornings.   The camping ground is full of Dutch vans, so obviously a popular place for Dutch tourists.

The first stop on day one was for coffee of course, in a cafe attached to a theatre.   Excellent coffee, made by a very friendly man.     Walter looking very happy, underneath a bright pink plastic statue of a Greek Goddess.   

 

 Lunch was excellent also.   A three course meal, wine for me, beer for Walter, sparkling water and coffee - all for the equivalent of 21 pounds.  The view out of the window was very pleasant, people walking past in the sunshine.

 The musicians on Charles Bridge.    A very professional group, who attracted a large crowd.   The buskers in Prague are very good, and people certainly show their appreciation in the amount of coins that they leave.

 More coffee, in the sunshine this time.    And no scarf!     McCafe produce good coffee, and apple cake as well.

 Charles Bridge, a pleasant walk across, and plenty to see, but thronged with tourists.   A perfect place for pickpockets.

And to finish this blog, a little bit of history.  According to the Lonely Planet, Czech history 'is the story of a people surviving occupation, and Czechs are more interested in their rebels and heretics than the kings, emperors and dictators who oppressed them'.  They have been invaded by the Habsburgs, the Nazis and the Soviets, and they have fought against them, often for many years, and eventually won.   Successful, determined and optimistic people.