Monday, 10 June 2013

Ljubljana, Slovenia

Today is my birthday, and what better way to celebrate it, than in the beautiful city of Ljubljana, and in sunny weather too.

And to think we were undecided about whether we should visit Ljubljana, as we were unsure about this city.  Lake Bled was more appealing, as we knew the mountain areas of Slovenia were spectacularly beautiful.   And it was a difficult decision as to which place to visit, but we chose the city rather than the country, and I am pleased we did so.

We have visited Slovenia twice, just after it joined the EU in 2004, for skiing holidays in Kranjska Gora, located on the edge of the Triglav National Park.  On both occasions the snow was very deep, and the clouds low down over the mountains.   Our memories on both occasions were of friendly, outgoing people, very large portions of delicious food, beautiful white scenery, a very old town (Kranjska), and for me, the ski tows, which were not the latest in high tech chairs, but rather pomas and t-bars.   

When I was learning to ski, I had difficulty staying on a t-bar.   In 2005, due to increasing older age, I had trouble getting off the t-bar. On one occasion I ended upside down, my ski firmly holding me onto the t-bar, in the bushes at the top.   The t-bar lift had to be stopped as I could not get my ski off.   So embarrassing.   After that I always waited for some kind young man to go up with me, so as to help me off!   

But Ljubljana Airport then was a dreadful place, made more so by the pilot of Ryan Air, landing the plane in a dangerous manner, in my eyes anyway.   So unfortunately the name Ljubljana, for me, was associated with the airport.   

But to digress no longer.  On with the day.

The view of Ljubjlana, from the castle, looking towards the mountains and in the general direction of Kranjska Gora and Austria.  Slovenia is a tiny place, about half the size of Switzerland, and more than half of its total area is covered in forest.
We sat for a while in Congress square (Kongresni trg square) and listened to a very good children's choir.   Not many people in the audience, which was a pity for the children and their teachers.   There was quite a comprehensive programme provided for the month of June.
 The beautiful trees in the parkland, by Congress square.
 The Ljubljanica river which bends around the old city.   Such a lovely setting with the old buildings, and cafes, bordering the river.   The area in the old town is pedestrianised, except for bicycles, and there were plenty of people on bicycles weaving around the people.  This is a bicycle city.  
 The Triple Bridge, built between 1929 and 1932, when two side bridges, intended for pedestrians, were added to the original stone bridge.  This bridge was designed by Joze Plecnik (1872-1957).   He was an architect and urban planner, who made quite an impact on architecture in Ljubljana, as well as in Vienna and Prague, especially with incorporating the new with the old architecture.  
 When you turn around, from the bridge, you see the Presernov trg square, with  the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation looming on the other side.  It is a very good example of early Baroque architecture.   The monument on the right of the photograph is a statue of the Slovenian poet, France Preseren (1900-1849) who wrote A Toast (Zdravlijica) which has been adopted as Slovenia's national anthem.
 We walked across the Triple Bridge, and entered the Central Market, with delicious looking strawberries and other fruit for sale, plus clothes, all very cheap.   We bought cheese and bread for tonight, and the cheese, cow's milk, was aged just perfectly for our taste.  

We entered the Baroque church, the Cathedral of St Nicholas, with frescoes by Giulio Quaglio.
 This street caught my eye with its curve and promise of more around the corner, and there was too.   It was also great to take a relaxed walk along the street, without worrying about traffic.   And the cyclists tended to ride slowly and were obviously used to avoiding people.
 Now I do not know where I am, but I do know this is not a Plague Post.  According to Walter it is a memorial to commemorate the freedom from the Turks.
 The shoes hanging above Walter's head, mark the spot where there were cobblers' workshops on Cobblers' Bridge.
As with all the other cities we have visited, there is such a rich volume of history here, but just too much to write about in one blog.  

But lunch beckons, my birthday lunch, and I chose the restaurant, one that had a cloth tablecloth, and napkins.   And an interesting menu for 9.20 Euros.   And we were not disappointed.   My glass of wine came in a Riedel glass (Walter was impressed with this), and the wine was very good too.   We ate vegetable soup cooked in fish stock, grilled octopus, with spinach and fried potatoes, and accompanied by a green salad, and the dessert was tiramisu.   We finished with an espresso, which was perfect.   The whole meal cost us 30 Euros.   Great value.    And the service was impeccable.  
Then onto a little train, which took us up the hill to the castle.   A very bumpy ride.
 Walter reading the information about the prison cells, one of which he is standing in.
The beautiful blue ceiling in the chapel.  
 We came down on the funicular railway, which we saw when we went up in the train.   This was preferable than travelling in the little train.   Sometimes we do not read tourist information carefully.  Of course we could have walked, especially after our lunch.

A trip back to Slovenia is a must, and we will definitely visit Lake Bled the next time.

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