Wilcannia on the Darling River

Not quite an English town!   But it started off as a very wealthy and smart European town.   It was officially proclaimed in June 1866, and served the massive Mount Murchison pastoral run.   During the 1880s and 1890s it was New South Wales' third largest Port (after Sydney and Morpeth), handling vast amounts of wool and wheat via the Darling River paddle steamers.  The population reached 3,000 residents with 13 hotels, diverse cultural groups including Afghan cameleers and Chinese gardeners.

After the railway lines were built, and the river trade ceased, the town gradually faded away.    The main Broken Hill railway line bypassed the town as it was built further south, as this was the shortest distance between Broken Hill and Sydney.   Unlike Burke, there was not a direct line from Sydney to Wilcannia.

There was a drought in 1902 that meant the Darling River did not flow for 364 days.    Shearing gangs used Wilcannia as a base for many years, but more recently the main employer of local residents is now the Central Darling Shire.     The current population is roughly 735 people.

Sadly Wilcannia also became known as the town on the Great Barrier Highway where no one stopped, except to buy fuel at a heavily barricaded service station.    The stories of people being verbally abused and threatened when they stopped to look at houses was wide spread.  However it was also an area of poor health, poverty and crime.    

The original inhabitants are the Barkindji (meaning people of the river).   The Barkindji people lived in groups that ran the length of the Darling River from Bourke to Wentworth.   This was their homeland for thousands of years before European settlers moved here.

We have visited Wilcannia three times in the past four years and have seen great improvements.     There is a new supermarket, without bars on the windows.    There are more buildings being occupied with self help groups and activities.    There is a fantastic cafe/takeaway on the main street.   When we were here two years ago it was beginning to grow in popularity, with passing travellers, workers and the local community.    They also support the TAFE and there are always young people learning how to serve and make coffee.   Yesterday I had to wait nearly half an hour for coffee as the queue was very long.  

The new building below is now an Aboriginal Centre.   Again, no bars on the windows.

The Post Office and residence.

The office for the Central Darling Shire Council.  The buildings here are truly magnificent.   

The council run camping ground is on the other side of the river, and is a very pleasant spot, concrete hard standings, plus plenty of green grass.   Piper approves of this place.    It is also a short walk over the bridge into the town.

The council must  have received some federal funding as they have built this impressive amenities block, one of the best I have come across.   There is also a free washing machine.    They have installed electronic locks on the door, which made me feel a little nervous in case they permanently locked on me.   The number for the lock is provided when you book in online, and pay the $37 per night.

The old amenities block, now closed, which still looks okay, compared to some camping grounds we have stayed in.

An even older amenities block!

The 260 km drive from Wilcannia to Cobar was very pleasant, although parts of the road had huge potholes due to the heavy rain in recent months.    The countryside was just gorgeous, and so green, and from the car it appeared almost like a green carpet.

There were thousands of goats, which have taken over the outback.   Fascinating.   Not many end up on the road as road kill, too canny I think.   I so remember the dead goat (not such a canny one) I once ran over, when I ignored Walter's instructions to go around it, between Cunnamulla and Bourke.  I had to spend time cleaning the car and caravan afterwards.    

The trip from Menindee Lakes to Broken Hill, and then onto Wilcannia went relatively smoothly except for starting late due to trying to book Wilcannia online, unsuccessfully, and me learning how to pump the caravan tyres up at the service station, equally unsuccessfully.  Then Piper developed diarrhea, luckily not in the car, due I think to our stress over the booking and tyre pumping up.   Or it was the campsite in Menindee that she did not like!   But she is okay now that goodness.

We are now in Cobar, such an interesting town.