Salt Creek Revisited

Today we travelled about 60 km to Salt Creek, the second trip we have made, but this time we had a tourist brochure which described the area.   This helped considerably.    

A week ago we thought we knew where to go, and what to see, but in fact we had very little idea.   Most of our information was based on Walter's previous knowledge of the place and the fact that we have passed through here twice.   This was not enough, of course!

Salt Creek Roadhouse, now closed permanently, even the toilets were locked.

Salt Creek was named after the fresh water stream that flows through here, and into the Coorong.  It was once a thriving town, with two roadhouses, a school, the National Parks and Wildlife Service, an Ambulance Station, a Country Fire Station and many houses.    I notice there is still a Country Fire Station there but everything else has moved away or closed down.   There are still a few remaining houses, plus a coffee van further along the road.

Salt Creek can be remembered for two significant events.  The first was the discovery in 1844 of what was believed to be oil.   This turned out to be a substance called  Coorongite, a dark rubbery substance which was flammable and burnt like a candle.    The second event in 1862 was the murder of an Irish kitchen maid who worked in the tavern.   The owner of the tavern was charged with murder and later executed.   It was pretty gruesome, first rape, then murder and disposable of the body down a wombat hole.   A very horrific crime. 

Walter has very fond memories of Salt Creek, when the roadhouse above was still open, and a neighbouring property which was then called Gemini Downs.   During the 1980s he was a teacher at Nails worth High School and every year there was a geography trip to Gemini Downs,   The idea was to study the geographic elements of the local area.    

However, Gemini Downs was such a great camping ground that being there became the focus of the trip, I think.  The students were housed in the shearers quarters, while the staff occupied the cottages.   There was an indoor heated pool, sporting facilities and large grounds.   Walter, as the Home Economics teacher, was there to organise and supervise the catering side of it.

We also stayed there with Darren, Jay and Jespa in December, 2011 and the place had started to fall into ruin.  The daughter, plus son in law, of the previous owners were now running the property and they were not interested in the camping ground.   Perhaps there was no longer funding from the Government to help maintain it all.   

We stayed in our small camper van in the camping ground which was quite pleasant although the ablution block was very dated.   Darren, Jay and Jespa stayed in one of the cottages, which had to be cleaned and set up by the owners before they could enter it.   However, the place was still dusty and full of huntsman spiders.  We cooked dinner there and sat in the dining room with spiders running over the floor.   I did not envy Darren, Jay and Jespa sleeping there.   

But the property is no longer called Gemini Downs, nor is it a camping ground or holiday park.   It is just a number on a road marker.   Quite sad.   

The sun was shining a week ago.

We turned right at Salt Creek onto a gravel road called Loop Road which ran between the Princes Highway and the Coorong.    It was a beautiful drive, with the Coorong on one side at first and then bush on both sides.   There were magnificent camping spots spaced at different intervals along the road.   

A view of the Coorong.

When we reached the Princes Highway we continued east until we came to a place called 'Chinaman's Well'    During the 1850s Chinese people walked through here from Adelaide, destination the gold fields in Victoria.    They were not allowed to disembark from ships in Melbourne due to the 1955 Chinese Immigration Act which was passed by the Victorian government to restrict the influx of Chinese miners during the gold rush.    

A well was built here, with a sandstone lid.    The lid was cut from an outcrop of limestone a little further from the well.    There are also remains here of a building which was once an eating house.

We have now driven most of the length of the Coorong, which is about 140 km long.  We feel very happy about this feat, however, there is still plenty more to see and do. 

The weather improved on the drive back, and we spent a pleasant afternoon in the sunshine at the caravan park.