The gardens of Garinish Island

The gardens of Garinish Island, also known as Ilnacullin, meaning the near island, located in the sheltered harbour of Glengarriff in Bantry Bay.  Garinish Island is small, only 37 acres, and beautifully landscaped and filled with plants from around the world.  

The island has its own micro climate, warm and humid, and even in winter only suffers from light frosts.  Comsequently they are able to grow many trees and plants from warmer regions of the earth.

There is no record of any early history connected to the island.  In 1800 the island was used as a fort by British forces and a Martello Tower was built.  This tower still stands on the island and is in very good order.

Annan Bryce, who was born in Belfast, bought the island from the British War Office in 1910.  He was going to build a mansion on it but the mansion was never built, because Bryce lost his money during the Russian Revolution.  I think he had invested it in gold mining there.   Instead he extended the cottage, and hired a gardener, Murdo Mackenzie, to continue the work of Harold Peto, an architect, who landscaped the garden.  

Annan Bryce died in 1923, and the work was continued by his son, Roland Bryce, and Murdo Mackenzie.  Roland Bryce died in 1953 and the island was bequeathed to the Irish people, and entrusted to the care of Public Works.  Murdo Mackenzie carried on being responsible for the garden and lived in the house until he died.  The housekeeper also lived there until she died. Both employees were very loyal to the the Bryce family and were treated as part of the family.

I am not sure how I thought I was going to get over to the island, but it was of some surprise to see this tiny boat pull up, 

to the equally tiny jetty.  We putt, putted out of the river in a cloud of exhaust fumes and made our way over to the island.  A trip that took 15 minutes.  Luckily the water was calm.  A slightly larger boat used the port area.

We passed basking seals.  They all looked at us as we passed by.  There was also a pair of very large and rare eagles nesting on one of the tall trees on the edge of the island.  It was very exciting to see them.

The cottage, recently renovated and opened in 2013.  We took a guided tour around the house, which was fascinating.  The tour guide was very interesting to listen to, and gave us more information, than what was in the brochure.  The requirements of the bequeath were that nothing was to be removed from the house, so we saw it as if the family still lived there.  It was fall of treasures and ornate fireplaces, all destined for the mansion that was never built.  The Bryce family were great travellers and collectors.

A walk through the walled garden, with a bright array of flowers, shrubs and climbers.

We walked up to the Martello Tower which had fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.

The view towards the clock tower, without a clock, the house and the hills on Beara Peninsula.

Granite rocks opposite the island.  I used the zoom on the camera, as they were not as close as they look in the photograph.

The Summer House, which had beautiful marble columns.

The Italian Garden.

In the afternoon we travelled to the town of Bantry, which is about twelve kilometres from Glengarriff.  Our caravan park was in between the two towns.  Glengarriff is a very upmarket place, with expensive hotels and restaurants.   Bantry is the opposite; practical, old fashioned, with small shops and narrow streets.  It does have a thriving fishing port, and plenty of oyster and mussel farms in its bay.

It also has a very large square with a statue of Wolfe Tone in it.  In fact the square is called the Wolf Tone Square.   In 1796 Wolfe Tone, an Irish patriot, persuaded the French government to send 43 ships with 15,000 troops, arms and ammunition, to help Irish men free their country from British rule.  But they encountered severe storms just off the south west coast, which scattered the fleet.  In the end they returned to France.  So that was it.  All Wolfe Tone achieved for his efforts was a statue and a square named after him.

More colourful houses at Bantry.  There were also two fish and chip shops in the town, so we returned that evening for a fish and chip dinner.  Delicious.

Our caravan, and the view over Bantry Bay.  Threatening clouds still, but the weather was quite reasonable.  I forgot to remove our little light weight clothesline before the photograph was taken.  Nothing like a bit of washing to detract from a good view.

And today we travelled in dry weather, on a reasonable road, to Cork.  We are now in Blarney, not far from the famed castle.  And we will not be visiting this castle or kissing the stone.  Too touristy, plus to reach the stone one must climb a tower and then lean backwards, with a very long drop underneath, in order to put one's lips on a stone that everyone else has put their lips on.  Ugh.   Instead we have six full days of more exciting things to do.

This afternoon I washed the sheets and towels, in a washing machine which I understood how to use, then hung them on the line.  Walter washed the caravan.  A glorious day, sunshine and a breeze.  Perfect.