kiwibird: Hyeres, an historic city, plus an interest in plants

As I sit here about to write my blog, I cannot help but dwell on the result of the Australian elections. It dominated our thoughts and discussions a fair bit during the day, as we waited on the results. Of course the result was not to our liking, I might add, but the realisation that most people in Queensland voted Liberal really hit home. Environment means nothing in this state obviously. One overseas newspaper reporter commented on how sensible Queenslanders were, as they put employment before environmental issues. I might add that the huge conglomerates that are behind the mining in Queensland, are into profits mainly, rather than ensuring employment in the state. Queenslanders have always set themselves apart from the rest of Australia. However we are talking about serious damage to a very fragile environment. Scary!

We voted by the way. before we left Australia. Voting booths were set up at various points for people to vote early. Lucky for us there was an early voting booth at the shopping centre in Aldinga Beach.

But back to the Cote D'Azur. We are determined on this trip to visit all the places that we really love, plus a few more. So today it is a visit to the historic town of Hyeres, with the main aim being the gardens at Castel Sainte-Claire, which are part of a villa high up above the town. The garden surrounds a villa, and the then owner, an American novelist called Edith Wharton, developed the garden during the 1920s.

Before I continue, I must explain that I am now fascinated by the planting of gardens and parks along the coast here. When we lived in the UK and came to the south of France we took great interest in the forests of cork oak trees, the mimosa trees, the wildflowers, the plane trees in the squares plus the vineyards and olive groves. I gave the gardens, and council plantings, only a cursory look, as they were mostly succulents, spiky plants, palms and such like. Most uninteresting I thought, and many were to be avoided when walking along the footpath.

And then we moved back to Adelaide, and lo and behold, these same succulents and palms appeared in the gardens by the sea side there, and in the garden of the house we bought. The plants had become very popular sometime during the twenty six years we were living away from the place. I guess a drought, scarcity of water, very dry summers and currently the high price of watering a garden made a huge difference in the type of plants that people chose for their gardens.

Most of the plants in question are not native to the south of France nor are they native to South Australia, but both places have a similar climate. Interestingly I have seen plenty of Australian bottle brush trees in full bloom (end of Spring here) and some Australian grass trees. Or Xanthorrhoea I think they are called.

So I am on the lookout for ideas, for planting our garden at Aldinga Beach. Therefore my blogs during the next few weeks will contain photographs of plants, plus descriptions of why they will be suitable or not suitable. An innocent small succulent in a pot can grow into a massive uncontrollable garden problem if planted in the garden bed. I have found this out when we had the big clear out before I left. My apologies to the non gardener readers. However I can assure you that some of the overgrown succulents are fascinating in their hugeness.

But back to Hyeres, which is a beautiful town, with heaps of character.

Walter standing at the entrance to the winding and narrow street, which is lined with small shops.

The narrow street opens up onto a square called Place Masillon, which has plenty of restaurants. The bottom of the tower behind Walter belonged to the Knights Templer. After we walked up to see the gardens we stopped here for lunch in the bar immediately behind Walter. It was a very casual place, unlike the restaurants in the rest of the square. This was reflected in the price as well. Lunch cost us 21 Euros, and for that Walter had a baguette filled with ham, cheese and salad, and I had a home made Croque Monsieur (a baked ham and cheese sandwich). We also followed up with two balls of ice cream each, in bowls, plus two espresso coffees. The sun came out and altogether it was very pleasant.

High above Place Massillan there is a square, with a church behind it, the Eglise Saint Paul. The view over the sprawling city of Hyeres,and out towards the coast is pretty spectacular on any day. But today I heard the sound of loud drumming type of music coming from the houses below. It sounded as if there were a band of drummers putting in some practice. But no it was coming from one house. On the roof balcony there was a man riding his exercise bike and waving his hands to the beat of the music. He was also bare chested, but no he was not completely naked as I could see his shorts. Still it was quite bizarre. If you make the photograph below larger you will also be able to see him! On the third roof on the lower right hand side of the photograph.

The inside of the Eglise Saint Paul. Quite a plain church but the chairs were fascinating as they were made of transparent plastic. Most unusual.

Hyeres is also known for its Bougainvillea shrubs growing up against the walls, seemingly in a few centimetres of soil, but no doubt the roots are well underground under the streets and houses.

I took note, this succulent needs to stay in a pot.

Finally in the gardens. An untrimmed Yukka tree.

The view looking over the town.

A trimmed Yukka tree. Much better.

A small garden display of succulents.

And more succulents, and I know that some of these will grow into very large plants, if left unattended.

A display of Bougainvilleas and climbing Jasmine. We have the climbing Jasmine at home, but I am determined to find a place for a red or purple Bougainvillea, which I will keep in shape and not let it grow wild. Famous last words.