Tongariro National Park

We started the day with our usual latte, at Fergusson’s Cafe. We have worked out that by the time we leave NZ we will have spent at least $700 on coffee (£350). The sun was shining, the temperature warm and all walks seemed possible.

We were also relieved to wake up this morning to find that we had not been swept away by a lahar. While I was finishing my hour on the internet, Walter read all the notices on the walls and pointed out that we were in a high risk lahar area, which was not comforting as we were about to go to bed. According to the instructions, on hearing a siren we have to dress warmly, gather up our valuables and sleeping bag and head for the safe area, which is a ten minute walk away (no driving vehicles). There is only a 10 minute warning before the lahar reaches you so not sure how you can do all of the above and still get to safety!

We had a very interesting day (as always). On the 2 ½ hour walk we travelled through a mountain beech forest and then climbed very steeply alongside a stream which ran over red and yellow rocks. The rocks are coloured by deposits of iron-oxide clays from upstream swamps. The stream eventually turned into rapids (Silica Rapids) and when we reached the place where the stream comes out of the cliffs there were creamy white terraces. We also walked (on boardwalks) over swampy areas of wire rush, tangle fern and red tussock plus a higher altitude tussock-covered lava flow.

In the afternoon we drove the 6 kms up to the ski area, which was very busy with tourists and skiers. The black volcanic rock makes the area very stark, even with the snow at the top. Scenes from the Lord of the Rings was filmed here (‘Mordor’ and Emyn Muil’). It is a large ski resort, which is not apparent when you stand by the buildings at the bottom. Most of the runs are intermediate, with a large number of black and extreme runs. There is a small area at the bottom for beginners. There are also a large number of chalets, which are built in timber so that they blend in with the terrain. We finally decided to have a look at Chateau Tongariro, which is ostentatious and very out of place. However, it has been here since 1929 and once belonged to the Tourist Hotel Corporation (the same as the Lake House, Waikaremoana). The decor inside is still left over from the 1930’s and very impressive. We decided to have a drink, a red wine for me and a beer for Walter, which was reasonably priced, and soak up the atmosphere. We sat on lovely comfortable couches and viewed a perfectly framed Mt Ngauruhoe through the window. We are going to have coffee there tomorrow morning and take some photos.